National Trail Guides UK

Contents : DALES WAY


		Introduction		Day 5
		Day 1		Day 6
		Day 2		Day 7
		Day 3		Day 8
		Day 4		Day 9

THE DALES WAY RUNS FROM ILKELY (YORKSHIRE) TO BOWNESS (LAKES)

NATIONAL TRAILS GUIDES UK - DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS & GALLERIES

Day 1 :: A Very Hot Day :: Ilkely to Burnsall :: 14 miles

Having left one car in a car park at Burnsall we drove to Ilkley and parked near the beginning of the Dales Way on a road near the Old Bridge in Ilkely. Unwittingly, having misread the guide book, we started to walk on the wrong side of the river, along a footpath and onto a road that wound its way through a golf course. We realised our mistake soon enough but as we had already walked about half a mile we thought we could cross back up ahead, and at the worst, by the time we arrived at Addingham. After all, we were following the banks of the Wharfe, just on the wrong side.

After we had traveled about a mile we realised that our road was no longer hugging the banks of the Wharfe and a closer inspection of the map made us realise that we would completely by-pass Addingham. And so we had to return, having added 2 miles to our journey.

We retraced our steps until returning to the Old hump back bridge and this time we crossed it and found the Dales Way sign which told us the distance to Bowness was 82 mile (the distance has been re-measured at 86 miles). We began, walking along a narrow path between a building and a hedgerow, just to the side of the bridge.



River Wharfe in Ilkley at Old Ilkley Bridge		Start of the Dales Way at Ilkley

The Dales Way ran alongside the River Wharfe on a level path with a stone wall on the left. Trees lined the banks of the Wharfe and birds twittered from their roosts on the trees above. We soon met a road which led to Ilkely tennis club and then a footpath marker taking us off the road and onto a narrow track through trees and then into open fields. As we walked the sun beat down on us. I had protected my head with a peaked cap and all but my arms and lower legs were covered. The warm summer air rose from the herbage as we walked, carrying the scent of dozens of flowers and herbs. Currents of warmer air seemed to drift over us continuously, much as currents of water do when swimming in a warm sea, alternating with warm and cooler water.

We were soon herded between fences after passing a kissing gate, and passed through several further gates until reaching an open field again and rejoining the River Wharfe, its bright blue waters providing a very pleasant contrast to the dry pale green grass of the field and the darker green trees lining its banks on both sides.

After passing a large white house on our left (which appears to have become a landmark on the Dales Way) our path narrowed and climbed amongst rocks and tree roots, while we passed over small streams joining the Wharfe.

We eventually emerged onto the old Addingham Road, which we turned right upon and proceeded slightly uphill. The road was reasonably quiet, although the traffic could still be heard on the main road that ran parallel to it. We did not have far to walk before coming to a terrace of houses and a right turn into Old Lane, which was signposted as the Dales Way, leading to Smithy Greaves and Holme Ings, modern but very attractive housing areas.



The Dales Way between Ilkley and Addingham		Dales Way approaching Smithy Greaves

At the end of the lane there was a large building being constructed and a fire engine parked opposite, just leaving as we arrived. Whatever had been going on, we missed it. Smithy Greaves and Holme Ings were beautifully laid out and its residents seemed to have an air of happiness about them. We walked to the end of the villages where a small flight of steps led to a tree-lined lane in the direction of Addingham.

We passed an old rectory and turned right at a signpost, down a small flight of steps, to pass through the grounds of Addingham church, proceeding across a large well kept field and bearing left just before reaching the church, to the houses opposite. Here there was a very narrow entry between houses, with a wooden bridge over a stream. This was very attractive. The entry was short and narrow, and after walking through it for about 30 yards we emerged in Addingham and turned right onto North Street where we had a view along a stream and a small bridge to the a garden.



Addingham Church		The Dales Way passes this beautiful garden in Addingham

North Street continued as Bark Lane, after just a short distance and almost immediately a signpost directed us down a path towards the river. here we could see a modern suspension bridge but our path took us to the left of this and back to the River Wharfe. We passed through a caravan site, passing people sitting outside of their caravans and eating lunch. Carol and I suddenly realised we were both quite hungry, but I did not want to stop yet as we had only traveled about 3 miles on our route.

We soon turned right, leaving the caravan site and again joining the Wharfe and now walked along the banks of the river for quite a long time, over a number of fields. The Russian gas pipes were being laid and our path took us right past an area where the pipes where to pass under the Wharfe. There was a large excavation in progress and the deep guttural whirring of machinery working underground could be heard.

Once out of earshot, and at the top of a grassy hill overlooking the Wharfe, we sat down and ate a small snack (sardines and oat cakes).



The River Wharfe just outside of Addingham		Our kitchen at lunch time

Our path eventually crossed a road and there was a gate opposite, which we passed through. On our left was an old building with a plaque outside, headed Fairfield Friends Meeting House. We then turned sharp right to walk along a wall which ran parallel to the road (quite a busy road). The map in our guide book led us to believe the path should have taken the far side of a field but this was not so. We continued for about quarter of a mile before reaching a sign by a gate which indicated the Dales Way. We passed through the gate and then had to walk about a half mile along the busy road to Bolton Abbey, eventually leaving it just before reaching the main road roundabout.

We turned off to our right and over a narrow wooden bridge. We emerged once more on the banks of the River Wharfe and then passed under a new bridge, coming across a cottage with a delightful garden. Immediately after the cottage we came to a quiet road with a gate opposite which took us back to the green fields along the banks of the River Wharfe.



Bridge at Bolton Abbey		The Dales Way at Bolton Abbey,

We followed these fields now all the way to Bolton Priory, all the time walking close to the water's edge. The sun was still bearing down on us and the surrounding countryside was idyllic. As we neared the priory there were more and more people sunbathing, paddling and swimming, taking full advantage of the magnificent weather and countryside. We soon passed a footbridge and stepping stones opposite the priory. An ice cream van provided refreshing ice cold water and orange and blackcurrent lollies We crossed the river using the footbridge (the stepping stones had amassed quite a large queue).

The path on the far side of the Wharfe was raised high above the water and was gritty. I noticed this particularly now because my feet were blistering. I had already used one compeed plaster. The path joined a lane for a short way and then there was a ford. After crossing the ford we were directed back to the track above the Wharfe.

Eventually we re-crossed the Wharfe at a bridge opposite the Cavendish pavilion. We had originally purposed to stop here and purchase refreshments, but after having visited the ice cream van we no longer had such a desire.

After crossing the bridge we then entered Strid Wood. This provided much shelter from the blazing sun although the path was even more gritty here and my feet were becoming very sore. We stopped to admire the narrow gorge where the waters deepen and the undertow strengthens. Many people have lost their lives here, trying to jump across. Falling into the water here is usually fatal as the current will take you down very deep.



Approaching Bolton Priory		The raised path opposite Bolton Priory



River Wharfe flowing through The Strid		The Wharfe is forced narrow and deep in the Strid

We continued through the wood, until eventually emerging near to an old stone footbridge, where we again crossed the River Wharfe, to follow a path along the right hand bank with pasture on our right. We walked through the fields following the banks of the Wharfe for some distance before reaching Bardon Bridge, where we crossed the road leading to Appletreewick. Here there was an ice cream van and I purchased more drinks and lollies (Carol resisted the temptation).

After Barden Bridge there was a narrow path set in from the road, which we took until a signpost directed us once again to follow the river towards Burnsall. The path snaked up and down above the river but eventually settled along pasture and we were met with a most amazing sight; on the opposite bank there were large, exposed riverbanks and they were drilled with small round holes. Sand martins were flying all around, skimming and flitting above the water, catching flies and flying in and out of the holes, where they obviously nested. We watched this for awhile before carrying on.



Old stone bridge near the end of Strid Wood		The River Wharfe from the stone bridge



Approaching Barden Bridge		Hundreds of small round holes where Sand Martins nest

Our path continued, by-passing Appletreewick and a caravan site. It was about here that Carol broke the news to me that she had left her car keys in my car which was parked back in Ilkely. This might mean I would have to leave Carol and run back to the car. It had taken us 6 hours to walk and would probably take me 2 to 3 hours to run. My feet were very sore and I did not relish the thought. The car park ahead of us where Carol's car was parked closed at 8pm. It was now 6:30pm. What should we do?



Approaching Burnsall		Burnsall Bridge

As Burnsall came into view, instead of being glad that today's journey was finishing, I was feeling sick at the thought that it was just about to start all over again. We arrived and found that the Red Lion Hotel was open and we were able to arrange a taxi back to Ilkely. We then walked over to the car park to ask if they could stay open late so that we could retrieve our car once we had the car keys, and the attendant there offered us a lift. We were overcome by their generosity but declined as we had already arranged a taxi. To top it all we then met an old friend who had moved to Burnley and was visiting Burslem for the day. He would have made sure we were ok.

So things worked out in the end. Our taxi arrived after only 15 minutes and while we waited we had a refreshing drink of blackcurrent and lemonade. My feet were very sore. Carol's feet were ok. She must have stronger feet than I. My shoes were too small and I decided to buy a new pair as soon as I had the opportunity.


Introduction	Day 2

Author - Roy McKee