National Trail Guides UK
NATIONAL TRAIL GUIDES Footpath Guides : Dales Way : Day 2
Contents : DALES WAY
Introduction Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 THE DALES WAY RUNS FROM ILKELY (YORKSHIRE) TO BOWNESS (LAKES)
NATIONAL TRAILS GUIDES UK - DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS & GALLERIESDay 2 :: Above Wharfedale:: Burnsall to Kettlewell :: 10 miles
River Wharfe leaving Burnsall A somewhat low water version of Loup ScarHere there was much duckweed along each bank of the River Wharfe and this gave an attractive green hue to the already idyllic setting. This side of the Wharfe the Dales Way continued with trees separating the path from the river, and there was an embankment on each side. Every now and then a small herd of lazing cattle blocked our path but soon stood up and cleared the path for us as we approached. The track alternated between lush soft grass and worn rutted and dried mud tracks. Camomile was often beneath our feet and we helped ourselves to the mellow tasting flowers. There were other wild flowers growing along our path such as tansy and hyssop.
The path continued without much change for some way, and eventually left the river to cut across a broad loop and again neared its banks as Linton Church and some cottages appeared on the opposite bank. near a gate there were exposed stepping stones. We ate our lunch here, taking our time to watch two elderly men chivalrously helping their wives across the stepping stones, the whole adventure taking about 15 minutes and causing a small queue at one end.
After lunch we walked through the gate to continue following the Dales Way, which soon passed onto a minor road with cottages and a fishery. A signposted path then took us back to the banks of the river where we were interested to see the beautiful lawns and gardens of the cottages near to Linton church on the opposite bank. We shortly approached Linton Falls, which we observed from the bridge spanning them. At one side of the bridge were the falls and on the other was a weir, but there was not much water to flow over it.
Bridge spanning the River Wharfe River Wharfe nearing Linton
Stepping stones near Linton Church The weir at Linton FallsWe then made our way into Grassington, which was only a half mile distant, where we took refreshments (water and lollies). We walked to the top of the main road, where there was an outdoor shop, and I purchased a new pair of fell shoes to replace those that had by now almost crippled me. It was too late to ease my suffering, but the difference I could feel was immediate, and I knew my feet would not get much worse.
Retracing our steps to the top of the main road we turned down chapel street looking for a lane on our right. We soon found the lane on the corner of a farm house, which was clearly signposted as the Dales Way. The lane led uphill between stone walls and overhung with shrubbery. At the top of the lane there were a number of different directions one could take. There were 3 gates. The one to the left was signposted as the Dales Way, but this looked to take us back to the farm. I stopped another walker who told me that the unofficial route was straight ahead, through the middle gate, and that it would join the official route just a half mile further on. This path was more direct and more enjoyable. We heeded the advice and were not disappointed.
This path led along a grassy track between stone walls but eventually opened out onto Lea Green, which is a vast open area of grassy land. The track from the official route of the Dale's Way was obvious, and we soon joined it. We would no longer be following the banks of the River Wharfe until reaching Kettlewell, but would be walking well above them on the open moor. We would, however, often catch glimpses of the river snaking its way along the valley in the distance.
Approaching Lea Green The expanse of Lea GreenWe kept to the right of Grass Wood. The path was the kindest possible I can imagine for my feet, although they were still very sore. Carol had come on holiday with a back injury. She had badly twisted her back and two of the vertebrae were locked She had received treatment from an osteopath but this had not been completed before we began our holiday, and the vertebrae were still locked.
Notwithstanding all the walking her back was each day getting better, although it ached after a few miles of walking. Carol never complained, however, although I complained regularly about my blistered feet.
Our path never changed very much for many miles from the open grassland which had a scattering of yellow tansy. I took pictures of some curious rock features. There were many escarpments and limestone pavements. Occasionally we passed between large growths of ferns but other than this there was little variation in our path.
Passing between ferns Old limestone kiln on Lea GreenWe came across an old limestone kiln which was about 150 years old, a remnant from times now past. Our path ventured past the kiln and after a short while we came across an obvious gorge which appeared on our left along the edge of the hills separating us from the Wharfe. The gorge stretched right across to our path and we were able to look along it down towards the Wharfe. This dry stone gorge is known as Conistone Dib and is quite dramatic in appearance. After climbing uphill to cross the head of Conistone Dib we approached some gated walls and stiles. The correct route to follow is over a small stone bridge and between two walls, ignoring the stile on the left. This leads to a gritty path known as Scot Gate Lane. We crossed over this taking the slight grassy track ahead. Above the gorge on our left was a large metal tower.
The route now followed to the left of a small limestone escarpment and in the distance could be seen an unusual limestone feature aptly named Conistone Pie. It is a natural limestone outcrop which from a distance gives a definite appearance of a troll's pie. We sat atop this and had another snack - a brie and celery sandwich, to be precise, and a large drink of water.
There were breathtaking views from up here. We were stationed opposite to Kilnsey Crag which looked very small in the distance. We could see along Littondale towards Arncliffe, and could make out the River Skirfare. We could also see along the Wharfe valley in both directions but failed to not make out Kettlewell.
Coniston Dib Ignore the gate on the left; proceed ahead through the top gate
] Go straight across Scot Gate Lane Conistone PieOur path was plain to see, wending its way towards Kettlewell. We resumed it , continuing on the same grassy track until reaching a gated stepped stile over a wall. the path was the same on the other side until we eventually saw the line of a pine wood ahead and noticed that our path was starting to descend slightly. As we trudged on we caught glimpses of the distant white ribbon of the River Wharfe snaking its way parallel to ourselves in the direction of Kettlewell.
We crossed several stepped and gated stiles over stone walls but our path never ceased to lead forward in a direct line towards Kettlewell, which managed to retain its invisibility until the last possible moment. We headed directly towards a coniferous wood which stretched across our path. We barely entered the wood when our path veered left along its edge, downhill, and we were very soon clear of the trees and following a stony path downhill between a wall and a high embankment. The path soon opened out and we continued downhill, turning right along a track that took us to a stile that led more directly towards Kettlewell, soon joining a minor road. This road took us into Kettlewell, where we had left one of our cars. We ditched our bags in the car and took refreshments from the tea room opposite the car park.
Dales Way runs near the top above the trees to Kettlwell Path down towards the Wharfe valley and Kettlewell