National Trail Guides UK

Contents : DALES WAY


		Introduction		Day 5
		Day 1		Day 6
		Day 2		Day 7
		Day 3		Day 8
		Day 4		Day 9

THE DALES WAY RUNS FROM ILKELY (YORKSHIRE) TO BOWNESS (LAKES)

NATIONAL TRAILS GUIDES UK - DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS & GALLERIES

Day 3 :: In and Out of the Water :: Kettlewell to Beckermonds :: 8 miles

Another cloudless, sunny day; beautiful weather in a beautiful setting. I had not expected today's walk to be anything special and in fact thought it would be mundane. I was wrong, very wrong. Each day so far has been better than the last, and today was no exception. It was easier for us today to walk from the end to the beginning, i.e. from Beckermonds to Kettlewell, but for the sake of this guide I will describe the walk as though we had started in Kettlewell.

The Dales Way began at the main car park where we had parked both yesterday and today. Turning right out of the car park and following the road to the bridge the path led back along the opposite side of the River Wharfe, behind the car park and on towards Starbotton. The path consisted of a narrow concrete trail following closely along the river bank. The concrete soon turned into grit. As the path progressed each side of it became adorned with meadowsweet, the sweet fragrance of which filled the air. Songbirds were busy and the whole area was alive with the joys of the day.

Ducks were found escorting their ducklings at almost every turn of the river, and every access point to the water seemed to be filled with people taking advantage of the good weather.



The River Wharfe at Kettlewell		Meadowsweet along the Dales Way at Kettlewell

The path soon opened out onto grassy fields. Although my feet were not as sore today, my right foot was still uncomfortable, but almost all of the path today was very kind to my feet. Wherever we looked along the river, both upstream and downstream, the views were breathtaking. There was always a backdrop of mountains, woodland and idyllic pastoral scenes. Everywhere we looked North Yorkshire was at its best.

We continuously passed through gates, stiles and squeezes. We passed the footbridge to Starbotton and then the path left the banks of the river to cut off a long loop. When we rejoined, about a half mile later, Carol decided she wanted to swim, and went in for a dip. It was too shallow, however, and after a few minutes of paddling she got out and we continued, Carol leaving a trail of water for the next few minutes. I was tempted to get wet as well, but didn't want to risk chaffing my skin by walking with wet clothes. Carol had the more fun of the two of us. I should have gone in.

Trees lined the river most of the time between Starbotton and Buckden and the meadows were separated by typical Yorkshire dry stone walls all running at an angle to the river. A clear view could be seen right along the dale to Buckden where the river turned left in a large, sharp loop. As we neared Buckden willows dangled into the water and gave a terrific air to the scene.



River Wharfe near Starbotton		Willows dangling in the Wharfe near Buckden

As we neared Buckden we could see up to Buckden Pike. The sound of agricultural machinery busily haymaking came into earshot and stayed with us for many miles. We crossed on a footbridge the dried up Buckden Beck, which normally flowed into the River Wharfe, and our track then narrowed between hedges and fences and became gritty once again.

We crossed the road to Hawes and made our way for our next landmark, Hubberholme. We continued to follow the banks of the Wharfe for some time and although the road ran parallel to us we were a sufficient distance from it so that we could not hear the traffic. The Wharfe swept round in an arc as it entered Langstrothdale and as it did so the scenery continued to improve, our path opening out so that all that lay between us and the river was a broad grassy swathe, although this soon changed and our track became gritty again. And then suddenly we were out in the open again.

We encountered many flocks of sheep huddled under a tree or wall trying to obtain relief from the sun in the popular shaded areas. Although our path often took us through their midst they did not stir, being more reluctant to give up their shaded position than to flee from us, as they normally would.



The dried up river bed of Buckden Beck		Mid way to Hubberholme, looking back in the direction of Buckden

Our path often came very close to the water's edge and we could see many shoals of small fish, probably minnows and sticklebacks.

The next village on our route, was Hubberholme and rather than by-passing it we would be walking through it. This was our next objective. The path from Buckden to Hubberholme varied between narrow gritty tracks and wide grassy tracks, usually populated with sheep, and the path was usually very close to the banks of the river. There were large tracts of hillside woodland all around. Meadowsweet continued to festoon the wayside borders, together with other wild flowering herbage.

We would often pass into fields were haymaking had been and was still being carried out. The Dales Way joined the road into Hubberholme near to a bridge and we were obliged to use the road into the village. At Hubberholme we turned sharp right to cross Hubberholme bridge and took a path running behind Hubberholme church. The church looked very old indeed. The path was very narrow, windy and elevated above the river's banks, but soon opened out to a track along a grassy swathe.



Hay making near Hubberholme		Hubberholme Church



Dales Way looking back towards Hubberholme		Approaching Yockenthwaite

Leaving Hubberholme our next objective was the farming community of Yockenthwaite. Our path ran beside a wall on one side and trees on the other, with just a few yards to the river. The river here looked very different to how it appeared further downstream, being mostly dried up with smooth limestone rocks exposed. There were many rock pools filled with a light green topping on shallow water pools.

The path to Yockenthwaite took us through meadows adorned with pretty harebells, clover and dandelions and through shallow woodland right on the rivers edge.

Reaching Yockenthwaite we passed through a series of stiles and gates and passed through the farm. There was a pretty stone bridge over the river just outside of the farm, where the minor road to Hawes ran parallel to the path on the opposite side of the river. The Dales Way continued ahead through a copse of trees rather than across the bridge.

For most of our way now the area was open land. Cars were parked wherever there was space on the opposite side and people were sunbathing, paddling and lazing in the shallow, warm waters. We stopped several times on route between Yockenthwaite and Deepdale to have snacks, and to bathe our tender feet in the soothing waters.



Yockenthwaite bridge - do not cross this but carry on ahead through the trees		River Wharfe near Deepdale



Nearing our car near Beckermonds		River Wharfe nearing Beckermonds

The next settlement along our route was Deepdale, a farm. The path to it ran through long grass meadows full of buttercups and through open meadows adjoining the banks of the river, now free of the blanket of trees. Sheep were dotted around here and there. We passed over a V shaped wooden bridge that gave us passage over a dried up beck and soon entered the farmtrack belonging to Deepdale Farm, which was also a B & B.

At Deepdale we swapped sides with the road and now walked on the opposite side while the road continued on the side we had just come from. In areas the river was completely dried up, with not a drop of water, and then a hundred yards further on there would be water again. We passed a cottage on the side of the river which was obviously in the middle of being refurbished.

We had parked our car just short of Beckermonds, and we now approached it. We hung around for over an hour, just enjoying the sun and the water, and then drove off and investigated part of tomorrow's route before returning to our cottage.


Day 2	Day 4

Author - Roy McKee