National Trail Guides UK

Contents :: DALES WAY :: Day 4


		INTRODUCTION		DAY 5
		DAY 1		DAY 6
		DAY 2		DAY 7
		DAY 3		DAY 8
		DAY 4		DAY 9

THE DALES WAY RUNS FROM ILKELY (YORKSHIRE) TO BOWNESS (LAKES)

NATIONAL TRAIL GUIDES UK

Day 4 :: Across the Watershed :: Beckermonds to Holme Hill :: 9 miles

We began today where we finished off yesterday, midway between Deepdale and Beckermonds and continued on the Dales Way, crossing the footbridge over the now almost dried up River Wharfe. We were on the Dales Way's closest approach to the River Wharfe's head waters which lay deep within Oughtershaw Forest which we would be able to see for most of the day as our path ran parallel to it, but unfortunately not on our route.

We crossed to the road to Hawes and followed it steeply uphill, passing Oughtershaw Hall, a truly magnificent old stone building which was well enclosed with mature shrubbery. On the road outside was a dead shrew. It had not been run over but had probably been killed by some predator. After a short distance we walked into the small hamlet of Oughtershaw itself and left it just past its houses at a signpost leading over a cattle grid towards Swarthgill Farm.

Beyond the gate the path began beside the Oughtershaw Beck. Its waters were very scant. There were many pools separated by large areas of exposed bedrock. The terrain was vastly different from the previous three days. The pleasant pastures were replaced with moorland and rough grazing. We were following a gritty farm track and heading towards Cam Houses, a small farming community lying just below the Pennine Way, another long distance footpath that we would later merge and stay with for some time.



Oughtershaw Beck close to the hamlet of Oughtershaw		Nethergill Farm

The weather was dry with much cloud, but as the day progressed the clouds passed on, but for most of the time while we were walking today we were not too bothered by the heat. We passed Nethergill Farm, a beautifully converted farm house located opposite a copse and continued along the farm track. There were wonderful views both ahead and to our rear. To our left was Oughtershaw Forest, but this was some distance from us. In front we could see Cam Woodlands, a spur of the forest that protruded out towards our path. In fact, our path would pass through a short section of it.

We passed by a small copse that ran each side of a dried up watercourse feeding into Oughtershaw Beck and then we continued on the farm track in the direction of Swarthgill Farm (spelt Swarthgyll by the farmer). The land sloped upwards on our right and sheep were feeding in the rough pastures. The land to our left was more fertile and there was evidence of more intensive farming there.

Swarthgill Farm soon came into view, and a keen eye could detect Cam Houses ahead of us and half-way up the hillside near to Cam Wood, which was also visible. We passed over a cattle grid and into Swarthgill Farm where we found another delightful farm house; quite a large one, and some large farm buildings. After passing over several stiles to egress from the farm we found ourselves on a delightsome grassy track, with moorland on either side. Every now and again our path was intersected by a gill running down a deep cleft from the hillside above.



Swarthgill Farm		Distant view to Cam House (close to tip of woodland)

Ahead of us and slightly to our left we could now see the looming mass of Penyghent, far in the distance, but its unique shape being quite unmistakable. The track had now narrowed somewhat as it wound its way large between clumps of rough grass. On wetter days this path might have provided some difficulty, but not so today. At Far End Barn there was a dilapidated barn and a ladder stile over the adjoining stone wall. The Burn itself held water secretly beneath fresh green and yellow grasses, glinting now and again to warn of its presence.

We continued on, the cluster of farm houses at Cam Houses now coming more obviously into view. The path had now become a narrow dirt track weaving between rough moorland with a stone wall on our left. The far extremities of Oughtershaw Forest could now be seen, where we knew the River Wharfe to be springing, while behind the woodland was the grey silhouette of Penyghent.

Our path continued to weave its way uphill between grass that become rougher and clumpier at every turn. We came upon a derelict barn where a Dales Way sign pointed to a ladder stile and over a crumbling dry stone wall.

We reached Cam Houses and threaded through the farm buildings and onto a road which led to the Roman road, Cam High Road, some distance above us, but we turned off the road almost immediately and headed down past the last of the dwellings and straight towards the tip of Cam Woodlands, walking at first between two dry stone walls on a stony but grassy track.

As we approached the woodland the path opened out and became rather muddy. Definitely a good job it was not wet. A large gill cut across our path. The path was waymarked by small white posts, which stood out between the clumps of grasses.

Just before reaching the woods we crossed a small but steep sided gully. A stile took us into the coniferous woods and small round yellow Dales Way markers were attached to the trees at regular intervals to ensure wayfarers would not stray.



Far End Burn		Far extremities of Oughtershaw Forest and Penyghent behind



The farming community of Cam Houses		Nearing Cam Woods

There was no obvious track through the wood, but the small yellow, white and black Dales Way signs attached to the trees were frequent and obvious enough to follow. We were only passing through a very small section of the wood, just at its tip. This was a new part of the Dales Way, as the route in our guide book took us around the outside of it, but it was a welcome improvement. Unfortunately the constant pestilence of flies that had taunted us since we first struck the rougher moorland continued to taunt us amid the trees, and we were forced to hasten our pace to gain higher and hopefully windier ground, as wind was the only way to discourage our tormentors.

Leaving the wood we crossed to a farm track and on the opposite side we followed a series of small white marker post placed to render more visible the narrow path, which now climbed steeply uphill. Looking back we could see the huge extent of the forestry plantations. We were becoming rather hungry and looking for somewhere suitable to stop, somewhere in the wind and away from the thistles and moorland grasses. We hastened uphill, hoping to stop where the track joins the Pennine Way.

As we joined the Pennine Way there was a cairn with a Dales Way and Pennine Way signpost. We stopped a little further on and ate, free from the pestilence of flies thanks to the freshening wind. In every direction there was a marvelous view. We could see, in the distance, Buckden Pike, which we had passed yesterday, and could almost follow our route from Buckden to where we now where. We were now on the Cam High Road, an old Roman road and which was also part of the Pennine Way. it mostly consisted of a wide grassy path with two, three or four deeply rutted tracks with stones and pools within them.

We ate our dinner and took in the views. After 15 minutes it was time to go.



Stile into Cam Woods		Cam High Road



Bridge over Gayle Beck		Gayle Beck

We continued, now walking a broad, rough track, sometimes covered in sharp stones and sometimes changing to grass, mud and deep ruts. Ahead we could still see Penyghent.

We soon came to Cam End, where the Pennine Way and Dales Way once more separate, the Pennine Way heading down and left towards Horton in Ribblesdale, and the Dales Way continuing across towards Holme Hill.

We were able to see both Penyghent and Ingleborough. Ribblehead Viaduct was also visible in the distance. We walked downhill, and the valley of the Gayle Beck became visible, together with the footbridge spanning it. When we reached Gayle Beck it was to find it almost completely dried up. Although we crossed over the narrow wooden bridge it was not necessary - we could easily have crossed by walking straight over the beck, without getting wet, but that would have been no fun.

After crossing the beck there was a short uphill walk to the road to Hawes. Our car was parked on the opposite side, just 50 yards further down, where the Dales Way continues over Blea Moor, but for today, our walk was completed.


Day 3	Day 5

Author - Roy McKee