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  Contents :: PENNINE WAY :: Day 13
 
                 
 
 
 
 
 
   
           
 
Pennine Way map 13
 

THE PENNINE WAY PASSES THROUGH YORKSHIRE FARMLAND

 
 
NATIONAL TRAIL GUIDES UK
 
     
  Day 13 :: Mostly Farmland :: Hanlith to Cowling :: 16 miles  
     
 

Another night of inadequate sleep and an uneasy feeling as I prepared for my run.  Nevertheless I carried out my usual yoga routine, breakfasted and packed.

Today’s run would take me along the River Aire for a few miles, passing through Airton and Newfield Bridge and then across country to Gargrave.  From Gargrave the route was mostly through fields and pasture with a short stretch along the Leeds & Liverpool Canal near East Marton.  Then I would proceed to Thornton-in-Craven, up Elslack Moor to Pinhaw Beacon and then finally through Lothersdale and into Ickornshaw.

We would be staying at an Inn tonight which is on the Pennine Way but also fronts onto the A6068, a very busy road.

I mentally divided today’s route into 3 sections – the first would be to Gargrave, about 5 miles; the second to Thornton, again about 5 miles and the third to Ickornshaw, about 6 miles.  The latter section would be the most difficult.

Time to go.  Although I did not know it when I set off I had forgotten to pack my energy bars.  This would mean that I would have to complete the entire run of 16 miles without any food.  I do not eat much anyway when I am running, but I usually find that after 10 –12 miles I start to run low on energy and need some carbohydrates to keep me going.

Rachel drove away and I set off from Hanlith bridge, where I had ended my run yesterday.  I started at a good pace, the path being easy and clear, along a pleasant grassy track.   The Pennine Way kept company with the River Aire, on my right.  Although this is a picturesque area it did not seem so today, being such a dull and gloomy day.  The weather was dismal and so was my spirit, for I was badly missing my family and wished to return home.  But at least there was no mist and no rain.

I soon arrived at Airton, where I crossed a road and continued on the other side toward Newfield Bridge, still following the Aire.  I arrived speedily at Newfield Bridge.  On a prior run I had covered the Pennine Way between Newfield Bridge and Hanlith and knew it to be easy.  Having reached Newfield Bridge, however,  I was now embarking on unfamiliar territory.

  
     
 
   
Hanlith
Newfield Bridge
Pennine Way at Hanlith
 
Newfield Bridge and the River Aire
 
     
 

I continued to follow the river after Newfield Bridge, although I was now running on the other side of it on a raised narrow path.  Where the river was met by the Tarn Dike and a minor road I left the riverside and made my way up Eel Ark Hill, looking back momentarily to look at the resplendent view from the brow.  Ahead lay Eshton Moor, and which I crossed to a wall.  Eshton Moor was really enclosed farmland rather than moorland.

I carried on across a number of farm enclosures until descending Harrows Hill, where I bypassed a replanted coppice and a number of other coppices (Middle Plantation and Mark Plantation).  At Mark Plantation I joined a metalled road that led me into Gargrave.  Here the Pennine Way signs soon disappeared and I was forced to follow the map very closely, picking my way through the streets of Gargrave.  My first section of today’s run was over. Dividing the run into sections like this was good. It helped greatly, mentally.

 
     
 
Eel Ark Hill
  
Eshton Moor
Pennine Way on Eel Ark Hill
 
Pennine Way on Eshton Moor, towards Harrows Hill
 
     
 

I was able to navigate through Gargrave without too much difficulty.  The bustle of the traffic bothered me a little and provided an ugly contrast to the peace of the hills and moors that I was more used to navigating but I was soon through Gargrave, leaving it at a path at the side of a school which led me back onto the Pennine Way.  As I left Gargrave along the school path I startled a local resident hoeing amongst his garden vegetables.  He wished me well on my run and we smiled as only parting friends do.

I soon found myself passing the Mosber Lane railway bridge and made my way over Scaleber Hill, passing through many fields, and near to the Crickle Beck I was surprised to see the couple and their dog that I had twice seen yesterday together with another hiker.  I said “hello” and ran on, not stopping to converse.

I was now beginning to remember my previous run here.  Then it had been very different.  The Pennine Way had been awkward to follow, the grass being short and hardly trodden.  Now it was long, and many muddy feet had darkened it.  The path could be seen even at a distance.  Last time there had barely been a path to see at all.

  
     
 
   
Crickle Beck
Langber Hill
Stream near to Crickle Beck
 
Pennine Way on Langber Hill
 
     
 

Not long after leaving Crickle Beck I joined a lane alongside the Leeds & Liverpool canal and followed it to Williamson Bridge, where the Pennine Way joined the canal towpath.  I passed under the double arch bridge near to East Marton which bore very heavy traffic, and the hullabaloo it made thundering over the bridge could be heard for a considerable distance.

After running along the towpath for five minutes or more the Pennine Way left the canal-side and moved steeply downhill to the foot of Langber Hill, which it then ascended steeply.  I had previously lost my way here, coming from the opposite direction and was now well rehearsed as to the correct route.  As previously there was no visible path, but I knew to run straight up and over the hill and to descend obliquely to my right to meet a fence, stile and footbridge over the Carr Beck.  I did so and then climbed steeply again before descending to an agreeable farm track that led me into Thornton-in-Craven. 

This farm track is known as Cam Lane.  As I followed the lane into Thornton a very attractive cottage appeared, its garden in full blossom with a multitude of iridescent cottage flowers.  The owner of this cottage had something to be proud of.  The garden was well tended and dazzling to look upon.  I thought how scenes like this very much add to the grandeur of the day, they gladden the heart so much.

 
     
 
   
Thornton in Craven
Stone pit Hill
Cottages in Cam Lane, Thornton in Craven
 
Looking back along the Pennine Way from Stonepit Hill
 
     
 

Immediately opposite Cam Lane’s junction with the main road through Thornton was a small opening leading to another lane out of Thornton.  The Pennine Way followed this route.  As I passed a large house on my right called “Throstle’s Nest” [I have seen at least 3 houses in the last few days with this name] I made friends with a small hedgehog, wandering around at the side of the lane.  He allowed me to take his photograph and I then bid him farewell and left him to enjoy the remainder of his day in hedgehog fashion.  I immediately came upon a large tract of land containing an abundance of meadow flowers, including giant hog weed, and the pleasant aroma of meadowsweet once again filled the air.

That was the first two sections of my run today out of the way.  Now for the final and most  difficult section.  I expected this section to be grim, or at least bleak, because the moors I would be traveling over were higher.  Time for a drink and an energy bar.  Oops!  I now realised I had forgotten to pack my energy bars.  There was no time to fuss about this and no one to complain to.  With a rumbling tummy I started running again.

As I followed the lane under the bridge of a dismantled railway there was an unsigned stile to my right.  I was not sure whether this was my path.  After much hesitation I decided it was not and continued along the lane, which I could see was leading to Brown House, a large farm.  I had no desire to trespass, but there appeared to be no definite path on the other side of the stile and I did not wish to go astray.

I passed through the farmyard and then saw a sign for the Pennine Way [phew!].  I carried on.  However, there was no longer a clear path to follow and I had to guess at the correct route across the fields.  As luck would have it I guessed wrong.  I soon realised my error, as I knew there should be a stream to my right but I could not see one.  There was a stream, however, way over to my left.  I now had to cross a barbed wire fence and a steep valley to correct my blunder.

Crossing the fence was easy enough but the valley proved difficult.  The banks were steep and there was a deep stream at the bottom of it.  I could not stand upon, or even see the edge of the stream as its banks were so overgrown, and in the end I had to jump from far back beyond the edge and hope that it would be sufficient to carry me over.  It was!

After climbing the steep bank on the other side of the stream I re-gained the Way.  Easy!  I now started to ascend the moor in earnest, passing between Park Hill and Stone Pitt Hill and up Low Hill to join Clogger Lane, a metalled road which took me to Carlton Lane, another metalled road.  I crossed over the Lane to join the path up to the summit of Elslack Moor, marked by Pinhaw Beacon, looking back as I ascended at Penyghent, which could be made out in the distance silhouetted against the sky.

 
     
 
   

Elslack Moor

Lothersdale
Pinhaw Beacon on Elslack Moor
 
Lothersdale from slopes of Townhill Edge on the Pennine Way
 
     
 

The path over the moor was easy to follow and during its descent it joined a small lane which I followed for a while before turning off on a path running parallel to Stansfield Beck and its wooded valley.  Here the path joined a stone track that led through a farmyard into Lothersdale.

Turning right along the main road in Lothersdale the Way resumed on a small track uphill on the steep flank of Town Edge (very steep).  After rising to the brow of the hill I then descended alongside Woodhead Farm and followed fields to Surgill Beck, which I forded.  The Beck was very pretty to look at, being clothed in a green mantle of deciduous trees behind which was a vivid purple heather common.

 
     
 
   

Surgill Beck

Woodhead Farm
Pennine Way approaching Surgill Beck Valley
 
Looking back towards Woodhead Farm
 
     
 

The Pennine Way continued steeply uphill once again and I joined a road leading to Over House and then to Cowling Hill Lane.  I crossed the lane, and made my way across and down the fields of Cowling Hill through High Stubbing and Low Stubbing and from thence to the village of Gill.  Next, I took a short section of road to a track beside a farm, into a field and then onto a path abreast the rear of a terrace of cottages.

Finally the path crossed a road and there was a steep climb to the A6068.  The Inn was there on my immediate right, and Rachel was sitting in the car waiting for me.  Rachel had already booked in and unloaded our bags.  I went straight to my room and stretched.  Rachel then offered me food and drink, and I did not say no!

 
   
 
 
Author - Roy McKee
Copyright © Roy McKee 2006