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Contents : PENNINE WAY       Introduction Day 4 Day 9 Day 14   Prep and Planning Day 5 Day 10 Day 15   Day 1 Day 6 Day 11 Day 16   Day 2 Day 7 Day 12 Day 17   Day 3 Day 8 Day 13 Prep Runs                     THE PENNINE WAY PASSES MANY RESERVOIRS, MOORS AND RUINS     NATIONAL TRAILS GUIDES UK - DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS & GALLERIES           Day 14 :: Very Low in Spirit :: Cowling to Hebden Bridge:: 17 miles           I hardly slept last night.  Our accommodation fronted onto the busy A6068 and all night long there was heavy traffic booming along it.  I am a light sleeper and the slightest sound awakes me.  It has now been a considerable time since I have had a proper night’s sleep, but fortunately my body seems to recover from it quickly. I am still injury free and feeling strong and healthy.  I completed my yoga routine, breakfasted and packed quite early.  Rachel had just realised that the traffic route for her today was complex and that I would need to show her the way.  I should have done this yesterday, but I neglected to do so.  This would mean that I would be late setting off today – the price of my oversight. Rachel was entirely correct.  The traffic route was complex and was made even more so by a major diversion near Haworth.  Thus it was that I was unable to set off on my run until 12 noon, some 2 hours later than usual.  Because of the complexity of the route I worried throughout my run that Rachel would not be able to find our agreed rendezvous, but as it happens I worried in vain.  I no longer find the running tiring.  I seem to have acclimatised to it.  Thus far I have had only one minor injury, to my seat, and that had healed by the following day.  I have not suffered from blisters, although I did abrade a small area of skin from my upper foot when running to Bellingham.  Physically, therefore, I am in peak condition and feel that I have been very fortunate. Mentally and emotionally, however, I am drained.  I am terribly homesick.  I miss my wife and my children very much.  Although I shall be finishing my run in 3 day’s time and returning home this seems like eons away, and it is no easier for me.   Further, the constant confusion in Pennine Way route finding tires me mentally; it also interrupts the pace of my running, and I am forced to stop and re-check the map continually and have to make best guesses as to which path to choose.  I do not believe that my route finding skills are at fault.  The Pennine Way is poorly marked.  That is a fact.  Most hikers I have spoken to agree with me.  Many other long distance footpaths are so clearly marked as to put the Pennine Way to shame. I am feeling a little low at present, and running alone does not help.  My time in the day after completing my run is fully accounted for in writing up my notes, stretching, showing Rachel where to collect me the following day, studying my own route for the following day, and so on.  This often takes me into the early hours of the morning.  On top of this I do not sleep well and I am no longer eating properly. The temptation to give up and return home is ever present, although in reality I would never do so.  I know that when I return home my friends will ask how I coped physically.  No one will consider the mental and emotional strain, and I would not expect them to.  Had I realised I would be so affected, I would perhaps have taken steps to strengthen myself in these areas.  At this time I am beginning to doubt that I will ever finish my run.  I very rarely suffer from depression, but I am becoming depressed now.   Yet I know that once I begin my run I will feel differently, at least until I have finished running. Today I will be running from Ickornshaw past Lumb Waterfall, over Ickornshaw Moor and making my way to Ponden Reservoir, where I will then be running in Withering Height territory to Withers Height End and down to the Walshaw Dean Reservoirs and from thence to cross the Haworth road, pass over Graining Water, passed the Gorple Lower Reservoir and continue on to the A646 near Hebden Bridge. My run began opposite to my overnight accommodation at a signpost pointing to Lumb Waterfall, and which I was advised was the Pennine Way, although the sign did not say this.  It was, however, quite close to the Pennine Way sign on the opposite side of the road where I finished my run yesterday. This was a very steep path and indistinct.  Either it was not the Pennine Way, or else I unwittingly erred while on the path, but after a short while I was unable to recognise my position on the map and the local landmarks did not match up.  I was, however, following a footpath – I just did not know to where it would lead, although it seemed it would eventually end up at Lumb Waterfall, and as the Pennine Way also passes around this waterfall the error did not seem fatal. I proceeded uphill towards Lower Summer House, but crossed the wrong fields.  I did, however, find a stile over a wall and onto Lumb Lane.  I was supposed to come out on Lumb Lane, but at a different part of the lane to where I emerged.  There was a sign pointing to Lumb Farm opposite to my stile, and not being able to see any other signs I was baffled as to which direction to travel, i.e. forward to the farm, or along the lane left or right.  I decided to check the lane to my left first, and to travel along it a short distance to see if there was any indication of the Pennine Way from this direction. When I reached a bend in the lane I saw a Pennine Way marker pointing to my left (the direction from which I should have come).  It did not point the way for anyone traveling in the opposite direction, and one was left to guess whether the correct route was left or right along the lane.  I guessed left, the way I was already traveling and which eventually led me directly to Lumb Waterfall.               Lumb Waterfall   The Pennine Way in the Lumb Valley           The waterfall was not overly impressive (or perhaps it was just the mood I was in), and I did not waste too much time looking at it.  I followed the path around the top of the Fall and on to some very marshy ground, where the Pennine Way led up Eller Hill on a path between long reeds and alongside a stone wall.  I could see the path in the distance following the wall and upon reaching the end thereof it returned at a tangent on the opposite side of the wall.  It was time for stratagem.  I was just in the mood for being naughty.  I climbed the wall and saved myself about 400 metres. In several places along the path were wooden chalets, the purpose of which I did not know.  Over the brow of the hill, High End Lowe (whoever named this must have a sense of humour) was a stone cottage, vacant and apparently abandoned, but not derelict.  This was an attractive house and built on the side of High End Lowe spring which converges further downhill with Andrew Gutter to flow down the Lumb valley.             Wooden chalets on the Pennine Way at High End Lowe   Pennine Way around a cottage on High End Lowe           I sped to the top of Ickornshaw Moor, which is paved in the boggier areas, progressed past a stone wind shelter and a small, dark, foul-looking pool to my left and gathered speed having now found uniform ground.  This area is known as  “The Sea” and is at the top of Ickornshaw Moor.  It was very exposed here and very windy and the sound of the wind drowned out most other sounds.  My path soon started to descend until I came to the upper Haworth road.  I here followed the road to its junction with the lower Haworth road and then to where the Pennine Way crossed it.  I should have run through Far Dean Farm between the two roads, but I had previously found this route confusing.  By taking the road instead I was adding an additional ¼ mile to my run, but it was at least swifter and less unpleasant. On the road I passed yet another house named “Throstle’s Nest”.  Ponden Reservoir now lay between myself and my route.  I crossed this at its western extremity on a small bridge.  After following a path for a short while I joined a lane which the Pennine Way accompanies around the southern fringe of Ponden Reservoir until reaching its dam, where it turns sharply right, uphill. Shortly after joining this lane I passed through Whitestone Farm.  I was running downhill and at a good pace.  In doing so I startled two dogs, which fortunately were tethered,  though I caused quite an uproar.  The dogs ran the full length of their tethers in an attempt to chew me, and allowed me a clear prospect of their long canine anterior molars.  I ran on, leaving behind the enduring and raucous frustrations of the tethered dogs. After reaching the dam I ran uphill on a steep track until reaching the Bronte Way, which the Pennine Way follows up Stanbury Moor.  As I reached Lower Heights Farm there was a large group of people sitting and standing outside, many of whom were holding long tube-like implements in their hands.  They were accompanied by many black labradors.  After I passed them the whole group walked off in the direction of Hill End, across the moor, and I could only guess at their motives.               Withins ruin   Withens Height           Running uphill now, towards Withins the beauty of the area escaped me, although on previous occasions I had been in awe of its charm.  Then, however, it had been sunny; now it was gloomy and wet.  I ran up to and beyond the ruined Withins building along a paved path to Withins Height End, the top of this hill, and then descended towards the Walshaw Dean Middle Reservoir, quickening my pace as I did so. I made good time in passing the Middle and Lower Reservoirs, following a diverted and very muddy trail away from the water’s edge, and soon made my way onto the Water Board road and down to the Hebden road, just below Brown Scout and Graining Water.  Here I met two men who intended walking the whole of the Pennine Way in just ten days.  Certainly an ambitious exercise and I wished them well.  One of them asked me if he would need to use his gaiters – he had heard it was wet and muddy.  I told him he would need a wet-suit!               Graining Water   Pennine Way over Brown Scout           The route to Colden was now straight forward, the track rising steeply from Graining Water to a junction where a left turn is taken onto a less distinctive but easy to follow path.  The valley of Graining Water is very attractive and appears unexpectedly, providing good views up and down the valley.  The Pennine Way then passes over Clough Head Hill, which is muddy but easily navigated, and comes out on a minor road near Long High Top.  The path then continues to Colden Water where a very steep sided valley is crossed, followed by the steep, grassy and muddy Pry Hill which descends to Badger Lane and then continues down, gently at first but then very steeply to come out on the very busy A646 near to Hebden Bridge, where I would be staying the night. It is difficult to park on this road, but fortunately there was a good pull-in right on the path, and I was relieved to find Rachel waiting for me.  After stretching we drove into Hebden Bridge and parked the car.  We were lucky enough to find a Tourist Information Centre who were able to show us on a map exactly where our accommodation was. We found our accommodation easily and although it was satisfactory I could not settle there. Hebden Bridge is a major through-route for heavy traffic and is very noisy, and the weather was extremely inclement – it never seems to stop raining here.  Thus I found myself miserable, morose and poor company for Rachel.  She tried to make me feel better, but she could not give me the one thing I needed – Carol. Tomorrow’s run was only 8 miles.  I decided to extend it by 5 miles and thereby reduce the following day’s run.  Instead of finishing my run tomorrow at Blackstone Edge Reservoir I would finish it near Oldgate Nick on the A640.  I drove Rachel to my new finishing point for tomorrow so that she would know where to meet me.         Day 13 Day 15       Author - Roy McKee Copyright © Roy McKee 2006