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Contents : PENNINE WAY       Introduction Day 4 Day 9 Day 14   Prep and Planning Day 5 Day 10 Day 15   Day 1 Day 6 Day 11 Day 16   Day 2 Day 7 Day 12 Day 17   Day 3 Day 8 Day 13 Prep Runs                     THE PENNINE WAY IN THE CHEVIOTS FOLLOWS THE BORDER FENCE     NATIONAL TRAILS GUIDES UK - DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS & GALLERIES           Day 2 :: A Grueling Day :: Cocklawfoot to Byrness :: 17 miles           I slept well after having stayed at Valley Dene again.  Carol and I did our yoga routine for 30 minutes before breakfasting and we then had to pack.  We would be staying at Byrness tonight.  After eating we said goodbye to Dennis and Margaret, our hosts, and Ian then drove us to Cocklawfoot where we would begin our run. We would be running back up the escape route to the Pennine Way at the border fence and then up to the summit of Windy Gyle.  This would be our highest mountain for the day, at 600 metres.  From Windy Gyle we would be following the border fence to Mozie Law, Beefstand Hill and Lamb Hill, shortly after which we would leave the comfort and protection of the border fence to cut across an expanse of bog, circumnavigating Wedder Hill and Pete’s Shank to meet Deer Street, a Roman Road which would then take us to Chew Green, an old Roman Camp.  Here we would turn west, crossing the border fence from Northumberland and into Scotland to cut across another boggy area, Coquet Head and from thence to re-cross the border fence to Northumberland at Ogre Hill and follow the edge of the forestry plantation to Ravens Knowe, Houx Hill and finally Byrness Hill where we would descend through the forest to the village of Byrness to complete our run for the day. We said goodbye to Ian and started to run uphill for 2½ miles before reaching the border fence and the Pennine Way.  We did not see the maps and compass I had left behind yesterday.  The weather was fine and the sun increasingly revealed itself from behind its dressing of cotton wool clouds and while running up Clennell Street (the escape route) we were able to see some magnificent views across some of the mountains we had come over yesterday, notably The Schill and Auchope Cairn.  Even The Cheviot was now visible, after hiding from us so completely yesterday. We sped quickly up the slopes of Windy Gyle, aided by a substantial area of paving, and at the top we stopped beside a pile of stones and a marker bearing a metal star.  This was an old tumulus.  We moved on to the nearby Russell’s Cairn with its large pile of stones, from where we could look in all directions at a vast panorama of mountains, valleys and forests.  Our eyes focused on Foul Step, Mozie Law and Beefstand Hill because we were now about to run to them.  I was anxious to obtain a keen bearing of their direction and shape in case there was a change in the weather, although this proved unnecessary as the weather remained dry and fair most of the day. There was a marvelous grassy track on the descent of Windy Gyle taking us most of the way to Foul Step.  The track felt soft but secure under our feet and it was a pleasure to run upon it.  As we ran the warm summer fragrance of meadow grasses drifted to me and brought gladness to my heart, reminding me of home where I took for granted such summer smells.               Russell's Cairn atop Windy Gyle   Grassy Track coming down Windy Gyle           After Foul Step we were running toward Plea Know, where the terrain became very muddy.  The Way turned sharply to our right but continued to follow the border fence and we proceeded uphill to Mozie Law.  Again we were treated to magnificent views in all directions.  Looking back the summits of The Schill, Auchope Cairn, The Cheviot and Windy Gyle were all clearly visible.  In front of us lay Beefstand Hill, luring us forward with its promise of a change in running terrain. We were now perspiring profusely and the sun was beaming more and more strongly upon us.    We were high enough to catch the slight wind at the top of the mountains which kept our temperatures in check and kept away the flies.  We were running a popular part of the Pennine Way now and from time to time we met hikers traveling towards us. The path was well paved to the base of Beefstand Hill and progress was rapid.  However, the climb to the summit, while not too long and not too steep was quite muddy and although we prevailed it was difficult to run upon.  After Beefstand Hill we ran on to Lamb Hill, mostly along a good area of paving.  However, we eventually met the pavers (about 5 of them) and were thereafter forced to take to a sodden, boggy path, much to the amusement of the pavers who took delight in witnessing our rapid deceleration as we left their path.  We did, however, after an exchange of a few witty remarks, praise them for their good work, and asked them to do the rest a little faster!               Beefstand Hill   Second Mountain Refuge Hut           Shortly after Lamb Hill there was a very small mountain refuge hut (and I mean small).  If it were to shelter more than one person it would indeed be very cosy.  However, it was warm and dry and therefore capable of preserving life.  We stopped here for a drink, which was very much needed after the amount of fluid we had already lost in perspiration.  We soon continued and were now obliged to leave the border fence, which meant that we would now have to give far more attention to route finding. The path now cut across the very boggy area west of Wedder Hill and Pete’s Shank to meet the Roman Road, Deer Street.  On our map this bog did not appear too large but in actuality it took us a long time to traverse it, being slowed to a walk for much of the way, such was the bogginess of the area.  Near Buckham’s Walls Burn some paving flags had been dropped in readiness for paving work and although the flags could not yet be run upon they were a definite help in picking out the path which at this point was very indistinct. The dominant smell in the air was now that of anaerobic mud pools and marsh gas – not too pleasant, especially after sinking some way into the mud and releasing trapped pockets of gas.  We eventually joined Deer Street (just a more level grassy track) near the top of Black Halls and ran past Brownheart Law and on to the Roman Camps at Chew Green, first crossing the steep muddy sided Chew Sike. This area was to us quite confusing, as the Way turned right at the base of the Camps and we had been expecting it to continue along a road which had appeared ahead of us (I think, rather, that we were willing this to be so, more than expecting it).  Most of our liquid had now been consumed and we were both very thirsty and anxious for our run to be over.  We were also now tiring, but we still had a considerable distance left to run. We turned right at the base of the Camps, crossing back into Scotland, and made our way uphill over the boggy Coquet Head and eventually crossing back to Northumberland and to Redesdale Forest at Ogre Hill.  If we had not been so tired we would perhaps have enjoyed the scenery here a little more than we did.  The view across the ridge formed by Yard Shank and Harden Edge were worthy of more attention than it was given. Keeping parallel to the edge of the forest we ran up the very wet slope of Ogre Hill.  The sun was now shining and I almost stepped on an adder (Britain’s only poisonous snake).  It actually coiled back to strike and just as quickly I stepped back.  The adder then made a hasty retreat and I managed to take a photograph of it before it disappeared.     Deer Street, near to Roman encampments   Redesdale Forest           Far in the distance we could, as we crested the brow of Ogre Hill, make out a cairn and rocky outcrop.  I was hoping this would be Houx Hill, but in my heart of hearts I knew that it would be the much nearer Ravens Knowe, and I was correct.  The Knowe proved a refreshing contrast to the boggy moorland, with its large rocks and dry path.  This made for good running speed and we soon made it across to Houx Hill.  Here we found ourselves facing a completely impassable mire, which stretched for such a distance along our path that we were obliged to make a considerable detour.  Once around the mire the Pennine Way provided a much drier and firmer surface and we could now make out Green Crag and Byrness Hill. We were looking out for a small tract of woodland to our left. This would be our cue to proceed downhill in the opposite direction through Redesdale Forest and into the village of Byrness.  For some time I was conscious of 3 other fell runners whom I had espied from Ogre Hill traversing Coquet Head.  They were gaining on us and I wished to win them into Byrness, where I presumed they were also headed.  Carol was quite annoyed at this because the pace I wished to run was beyond her comfort zone and she thought I was being unfair.  I was, but I still tried to push the pace, and we did keep ahead of them, but only just. From our vantage point on Byrness Hill we could now see the busy A68 far below us and I knew that our descent could not lie far ahead.  We came upon a circular walled cairn at the top of Byrness Hill and could see a very narrow forestry path opposite, which we took.  Although it was not signed it was the only visible path and the small tract of woodland we had been looking for was opposite.  If it were the wrong track we were still heading in the right direction.               Byrness Hill - the point at which we turned right to descend   The beginning of the descent into Redesdale Forest and Byrness           The path ran steeply downhill and Carol was very frightened.  I did not know this at the time and was pushing the pace to keep ahead of the runners behind.  After a while I realised that Carol was neither in sight nor in sound range and I had to back-track steeply uphill to find her.  I discovered the first of her many phobias.  She had an intense fear of heights, even on modestly steep slopes.  It took us ages to descend Byrness Hill, the path being so rocky and so steep, but we prevailed. I could not help but notice the warm summery smell of the ferns as we passed through them, lining the sides of the path with a dense green swathe.  Flies catching our scent became very pestilent and would not leave us alone, hanging in thick clusters around our heads, buzzing into our ears and trying to alight on our faces.  It was too tiring to run and swat at the same time, and in the end we just let them get on with it. We crossed several Forestry Commission tracks, the last such bearing a hand-written sign pointing left for the Pennine Way.  Our map indicated straight on.  The more desirable way was left, but despite Carol’s protestations I insisted that we follow the map, and we did.  After only a few minutes we happily realised that we had chosen the correct route and we left the forest, crossed a small grassy field and found ourselves on the village road.  A car was parked on the road where we emerged, which turned out to be the support vehicle for the runners who were still behind us.  We had beaten them after all. We did not know which way to go from here.  We were to meet Ian at the Byrness Hotel.  We guessed left and were lucky enough to be correct.  After only 100 yards we found the hotel, and Ian was just leaving it to come looking for us. We were very tired and immediately checked into the hotel and showered and then stretched.  Within 2 hours I had consumed 4 pints of water and still felt thirsty.  Carol’s feet were covered in blisters and one of her toe nails was hanging off.  Two of her toes were badly swollen and discoloured.  I did not think she would be able to run tomorrow.  Physically I was unscathed. Later that evening we drove to Kielder Forest and I there made a sound recording of Ridge End Burn, a tributary to the River North Tyne, and a recording of Dove Sike, a tributary to Ridge End Burn.  It was very relaxing to sit listening to the gently running water.  Whilst making the recording the weather changed considerably.  The sun winked goodbye and the wind freshened, bringing with it cold showery rain. Tomorrow’s weather, it seemed, would not be so fair, but at least we had completed our run in the Cheviots, and tomorrow we would be running in less hostile territory.         Day 1 Day 3       Author - Roy McKee Copyright © Roy McKee 2006