National Trail Guides UK HOME   FOOTPATH GUIDES NATURE SOUNDS THE AUTHOR THE SPONSOR         NATIONAL TRAIL GUIDES Pennine Way Wolds Way Two Moors Way   Southern Upland Way Footpath Guides :: Pennine Way :: Day 4 Dales Way

Contents : PENNINE WAY       Introduction Day 4 Day 9 Day 14   Prep and Planning Day 5 Day 10 Day 15   Day 1 Day 6 Day 11 Day 16   Day 2 Day 7 Day 12 Day 17   Day 3 Day 8 Day 13 Prep Runs                     THE PENNINE WAY SKIRTS THE INNER LENGTH OF REDESDALE FOREST     NATIONAL TRAILS GUIDES UK - DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS & GALLERIES           Day 4 :: A Jewel in the Wilderness :: Bellingham to Steel Rig :: 15 miles           I was very tired when I awoke this morning, not having slept well last night.  I had slept in a single bed and the bed clothes were not large enough to tuck under the bed.  Consequently, whenever I turned the bed clothes fell off, waking me.  After rising Carol joined me and we did our usual yoga workout, after which I felt more alert.  We then ate a hearty breakfast and by the time we were ready to leave I felt much better. Carol’s foot had healed considerably during the night and my own minor foot abrasion was no longer troubling me thanks to Ian’s medical supplies.  I had used surgical spirits on my abrasion and then bathed it in neat lavender oil.  I had then covered it with a Compeed plaster and secured this with a single layer of micropore tape, which is very thin.  I did not have much faith in such dressings but at Ian’s insistence I was prepared to give them a try.  They actually worked very well and I never had any more trouble from this abrasion. During the previous evening Carol had lanced her toe and the swelling had reduced somewhat, although she was still in pain.  I know she suffered more than she let on. Our route today would take us from Bellingham to Shitlington Crags, across Wark Common, over the Warks Burn and into Wark Forest.  We would emerge from the forest and run over Haughton Common and then re-enter the forest.  Leaving it again we would traverse Ridley Common to join Hadrian’s Wall at Rapishaw Gap, and would then run along the Wall to Steel Rig car park just beyond Peel Crags. We resumed our run just off the main road from Bellingham and were afforded a magnificent view of the town which could be seen above the banks of the River North Tyne (which itself remained hidden).  We proceeded up and across a steep field to a track which led to a relay station on Ealingham Rig  This looked like a huge metal triffid with a conical proboscis on top, and towered over us while the wind whistled through its metal trusses.               Looking back to Bellingham   Metal triffid on Ealingham Rig           From here we could see across to Hadrian’s Wall, far in the distance on the skyline.  The weather was dry but the sky was deeply overcast and the wind very billowy.  We made our way across wet fields to Shitlington Crags, a long rocky outcrop rising tall and sheer above the fields below it.  The sounds of domestic livestock from local farms was ever present – the lowing of the cattle and the bleating of the sheep.  Carol had a phobia for cattle (phobia number 2) and insisted I stayed with her while we passed them.  Many of the cows had calved, although they appeared non-threatening and docile enough. As we approached Shitlington Hall (in fact a farm not a hall) there was the most beautiful aroma of drying hay, a typical smell of a rural farm.  This smell always takes me back to younger days and I loved the smell, although admittedly it is not to everyone’s liking.  The hay was wrapped in neat black plastic bags and stacked at the side of a barn.  This really was a tranquil rural scene.  Trees lined the hillside and the sun was now peeping at us.  Black cattle and white sheep dotted the fields and hills.  This is the kind of place I would like to live in.  I have often wondered what kind of life a farmer lived, and wondered whether my family and I would enjoy such a life – then again, probably not.  It sounds nice, but I am sure it is a difficult life. Shitlington Hall was quite a large and attractive farm and I imagined that life in it could be very pleasant. As we left Shitlington Hall we had a clear view across to Esp Mill but after a hundred yards or so the Pennine Way turned left along a wooded bank beside the Houxty Burn and proceeded over a small footbridge and from thence up and over a large field, where we met a farmer and his dog riding on a small tractor, the dog sitting beside the farmer much as a human friend would do.  Although we were reasonably sure of the way we stopped him to ask directions, for politeness’ sake (we were, after all, on his land).  He was a most amiable man and seemed very relaxed and content.  He and his dog seemed at one, serenely peaceful in each other’s company.  This is an admirable quality that I have often wished, and still wish,  to obtain in my own life with my family. We next made our way to a minor road that led to Wark village, but crossed the road and followed a lane south.  I made a mental note to return some time to visit Wark village.  On the map it seemed to lie in an idyllic setting on the banks of the River North Tyne, near to where the Warks Burn joins it.               Looking back to Shitlington Crags & Hall   Approach to Lowstead Farm           We followed the lane for a short way when both Carol and I stopped in our tracks, being totally overwhelmed with the most sweetly scented fragrance I can ever recall coming across.  I soon discovered it to originate from some creamy wayside flowers clustered thickly along each side of the lane.  I later identified this as Meadowsweet.  I was obliged to take a photograph of the flowers to ensure a positive identification when returning home.  I shall always remember this smell and shall certainly recognise it next time. We passed a small boggy copse which the Pennine Way circumnavigated.  There were herds of cattle all around, providing a menace to Carol but a feeling of tranquility to me.  Our lane led past Linacres farm and through the grounds of Lowstead Farm, which provided bed and breakfast accommodation.  The owner was cutting one of the many lawns.  He was very friendly and pointed out directions to us.  Carol and I fell in love with the farm.  The gardens were so well maintained and were in full bloom.  The buildings, at least externally, were very attractive.  If ever I were to return to this area I would certainly be minded to stay here. We passed through the gardens and made our way across rough pasture to a road at Leadgate which we crossed and then headed for The Ash, a large farm complex.  We passed through this farm and made our way to Horneystead Farm.  This was another attractive farmstead and boasted many fine horses seemingly happy in their fine verdant quarters.  The sun was now out again and we enjoyed another sensation of a serene and tranquil summer’s day on a farm.               Lowstead Farm   Warks Burn valley           After Horneystead Farm the fields gave way to rough pasture which in turn gave way to moorland and bog.  Not too far in front of us we could see Wark Forest.  We came to the Warks Burn which we crossed at a footbridge, first descending its steep valley side.  This was an exquisite setting.  In contrast to the moorland the banks of the Burn, for as far as I could see, they were clothed with deciduous trees and ferns.  The pleasant smell from the ferns pervaded the atmosphere and seemed to trap a little of summer within the Valley. Wark Forest was now beckoning.  We were about ½ mile from our ingress point.  The weather started to worsen.  The rain came.  We were running today in shorts but the feel of the rain on our skin was not uncomfortable; more, it was refreshing.  The temperature had dropped considerably although the toil of our labour provided more than sufficient energy to keep us warm. We here became a little confused with our directions.  Fences on the map were not present on the ground.  We were able to approximate our position using the Fawlee Sike and its small but very attractive waterfall as a bearing.  We came upon this waterfall without any warning and simply did not expect to find such a jewel in this bleak wilderness.  The sike was very small and did not look capable of possessing such a treasure.  The water flowed modestly over the Fall’s brink, although it was obviously capable of passing greater volumes in more inclement weather.  This was most certainly a time to pause and take a drink (not from the Fall!), and for a few minutes, therefore, we idled here, using the time to make certain of our position.               Looking back to Warks Burn and Horneystead Farm   Waterfall on Fawlee Sike (Jewel in the Crown)           Shortly after, we ran into Wark Forest, just as the rain pelted heavier upon us.  This was good timing.  Although we would still get soaked we would at least have some shelter.  The wind could now be heard growling gutturally above the trees, the tops of which were now swaying backwards and forwards.  The long wet grass on our path, also swaying in the wind, rubbed constantly against our bare legs making for an uncomfortable itching sensation, and at times hidden amongst the grasses were some nasty stinging things. The path through the forest was easy to follow and we were soon through this first section and onto the road at Ladyhill.  Our emergence onto the road was quite funny. Before we found it we came to a forestry path junction with four different directions to choose from.  We were not sure which of the paths to take.  The Pennine Way at this junction was not signed.  We were looking for a road and had not expected this junction which did not appear on our map.  As we stood debating which way to go, Carol suddenly saw a car speed by.  This was so unexpected!  The road we had been looking for was only 200 metres from us but had remained invisible until the car had passed by. Direction finding in the forest, after this incident, was straight forward and the Pennine Way was well sign-posted.  We re-entered the forest at Crozier’s Hill opposite to a farm called Willowbog.  Although the path was easy to follow it became very difficult to run.  It had narrowed considerably and had become very muddy.  On each side of the narrow track were small ruts or perhaps ditches, which were covered with long grass and many times we narrowly avoided ankle injuries. We came upon and crossed via a small footbridge Gofton Burn.  I took a photograph of this because the Burn was quite invisible and were it not for the presence of the footbridge one would just run into it without any warning.  Shortly after Gofton Burn we left the forest to cross Haughton Common, a huge tract of open land lying between two large sections of the forest.  In the distance we could see (about 4 miles away) Hadrian’s Wall and a little nearer, the two loughs on Ridley Common, being Greenlee Lough and Broomlee Lough.  The Common was considerably boggier than when I had previously been here and progress was slow, although less menacing than the forestry path.               Footbridge over Gofton Burn   Looking to next section of Wark Forest over Haughton Common           We passed a stand of trees enclosed by a crumbling dark grey stone wall, a strange and solitary sight in this open expanse and a major landmark between the two sections of the forest.  As we ran toward the next section of forest a low flying RAF jet screamed past us and turned just in front.  It did this about 4 or 5 times as we ran towards the forest, each time turning just in front of us.  We wondered if the pilot was playing games with us, practicing mock kills as I know they do. We re-entered the forest passing between Hoglair Hill and Rushy Rig upon an easy grassy path to meet a wide, stoned forestry track which we followed to its limit, finally exiting the forest near East Stonefolds Farm.  Once again we made our way across rough pasture and then marsh.  We were now alongside Greenlee Lough, which is a nature reserve.  We then climbed Crag End on Ridley Common and crossed Jenkins Burn, where I had once, in utter desperation, dared to ease my thirst from its marshy waters.  We finished crossing the Common and joined Hadrian’s Wall at Rapishaw Gap between Cuddy’s Crags and Hotbank Crags. It was here that the full weight of Carol’s phobia for heights really dawned upon me.  On our second day she had struggled in descending Byrness Hill but I had put this down to a girlie thing.  To my horror I now realised that Carol was absolutely petrified of heights and that ascending the stone steps of Hotbank Crags was a major stumbling block for her.  I knew this was not very severe compared to the far steeper and longer steps ahead of us, but for the moment I said nothing.  She had looked forward to running along the Wall, as she had known the path to be dry and accommodating.  Her impression of it was now changing.  For today we would only be running along 2½ miles of the Wall.  Tomorrow would be a different story.               Pennine Way in second section of Wark Forest   The Author at Rapishaw Gap           Carol coped well with the wall, given her phobia of heights, but insisted upon me shepherding her whenever we came across any of the turrets and mile castles of Hadrians Wall.  As we emerged from a small wooded section of the Wall we spotted a copse of trees in the distance where I knew Steel Rig car park lay, and where we hoped Ian would be waiting for us.  Our target was now in sight. We passed over the top of Crag Lough, observing from above the swaying reeds encircling its shallow waters.  What an excellent contrast the still blue waters of the Lough provided to the lush green pastureland.  We passed several of the Wall’s mile castles, all of which contained steep sides with stone steps, put there especially to torture Carol, or so it seemed to her.  The steepest for today still lay before us.  Just after Peel Crags there was an exceptionally steep turret and to make matters worse there were labourers working on restoration at the bottom of the Wall, all of whom were well placed to witness Carol’s descent.  I could see the fear in Carol’s face as I coaxed her down, and her fear quite overcame her embarrassment.   But she did it!               Rapishaw Gap   Steel Rig car park (in trees)           We were now nearing the car park and Ian was out to meet us with a welcome smile and a reassuring greeting.  Artists were seated, sheltered from the harsh weather, beneath the fringe of the car park’s trees, each of whom were making a painting of Crag Lough and Peel Crags.  We looked at one of the paintings and thought it was marvelous, even though not yet finished. Carol was cold and very tired, and a little upset with her adventures on the mile castles and turrets of the Wall.  I felt energetic and well and although Carol wanted to drive to our overnight accommodation in Haltwistle straight away, I was anxious that we should stretch as soon as possible.  Injuries are often manifested when driving in a car (stooped and slouched) after arduous exercise and I had already learned the lesson of stretching as soon as possible after completing a long run.  I insisted and Carol acquiesced.  We found a secluded area at the rear of the wood and stretched for 10 minutes. We then proceeded to Haltwistle and found our accommodation, the Ashcroft Hotel, which was quiet, immaculate and quite superb.          Day 3 Day 5       Author - Roy McKee Copyright © Roy McKee 2006