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National Trail Guides UK
Contents : SOUTHERN UPLAND WAY
Introduction Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 THE SOUTHERN UPLAND WAY CROSSES SCOTLAND WEST TO EAST COAST
Day 1 :: Coast and Moors :: Port Patrick to Waters of Luce :: 20 miles
The path followed the cliff top , past an old coast guard station which had some very high and thin masts and onto a sandy path beside Dunskey golf course. Ahead of us we could see the inlet of Port Kale and Maidenhead Bay, which was dotted with many small islands.
The cliff top path descended steeply to the sandy Maidenhead Bay. Just out to sea we could see the small rocky isle known as Black Isle. Above the Isle hovered many gulls, like marionettes on invisible strings. Many of the rocks were white-foamed although there was barely a hint of a breeze. The air was filled with the acrid smell of rotting seaweed as we crossed the bay to Port Kale. An unusual white building marked the point where the first telephone cable was laid under the sea to Ireland in the 1850's.
We soon came to a footbridge spanning the Dunskey Glen, near to where it drains into the sea at Port Kale. It was flowing rapidly, with cascades as it tumbled between rocks into the sea. The thrift and other maritime blossoms again filled the air and the effect of the whole experience was like nirvana to our souls.
The path climbed and fell steeply, its cliffs now lined with pale yellow pansies and blue flowers that I could not identify. In places the path was so steep that metal chains had been provided to hold on to.
As we rounded a bend we saw the prominently appointed lighthouse at Killantringan. When we reached it we were attracted by its large foghorn and by the sight of a wrecked ship on the rocks below. This was the Craigantlet and was in two distinct halves. Before reaching the lighthouse the path veered to our right along a narrow road that at first zigzagged alongside a swollen and bubbling stream.
Skylarks ascended and descended in the sky above us, singing their territorial songs. They were present almost continuously until we leveled with Stranraer. We passed Killantringan farm, noting its wonderfully fragrant maturing hay. The road went on, and on, and on and eventually reached a T junction where we turned left and shortly after turned right, following a plain road which later became a track.
Whilst walking along the track we thought that we had lost our way until coming upon a Southern Upland Way marker and leaflet post. The track we were following was rutted on two sides which were partly filled with pools of water. It was very awkward and uncomfortable to walk upon. We eventually came to a prominent cairn atop a hill. To our left was the coniferous plantation known as Knockmanoak. From here we could see Loch Ryan in the distance, marking the entrance to Stranraer.
From the cairn we took a path up the hill and over a stile onto Broad Moor, where the landscape changed substantially. We were now in the midst of a deceptively dry looking brown swathe of moorland grasses. A slight straying form the path quickly showed how sodden the moor was.
I had been asking Ron's indulgence for some considerable time to allow me to take a sound recording of the skylark melodies that had accompanied us for much of the journey today. They were now singing with such vigour that he eventually gave way and allowed me to record. i had been lugging my sound recording equipment around all day on my back. It was only fair that I should use it. I recorded for 20 minutes while Ron absorbed sunlight.
We stopped near to the Knocquahassan Reservoir, which is in the middle of the moor. After the recording we walked past the reservoir, by-passing a metallic bridge over part of the reservoir. We passed between large hedgerows of gorse which gave off a strong marzipanish aroma. Port Ryan and the Isle of Ailsa Craig were visible in the distance.
We turned right onto a farm track and stopped awhile to admire the black, heavily coated cattle and calves huddled around a hay feed. The hedgerows on both sides were mostly made up of fuchsia, the first time I had ever seen such. They were about to flower and I am certain this would have been a tremendous sight. The fuchsia hedgerows stretched for some considerable length. The path was very gritty and as making an impression on our blistering feet.
We passed a small river by Greenfield Farm. After this our path become a road and were were afforded an excellent view over Loch Ryan and Stranraer. We could clearly make out the ferries.
We turned right at Ochtrelure, along a very straight and long road, at the end of which there was a strong smell of silage. I actually like this but most people find it offensive. The road turned left and then right, where we left it to take a muddy, downward path between gorse. At the foot of the path we turned right on a road down to Whiteleys where we took a left turn at a fork until reaching the main road. Here we dog-legged left then right. We were now on a farm track and were met by a farmer in his landrover, leading 190 cattle over the main road.
He stopped us and asked us to cross a gate into a field on the left so as not to scare the cattle back. We did so, resting for 15 minutes while 190 cattle passed, most of which stopped to look over the gate or hedge at us. The cattle eventually passed and we looked back to see the traffic on the busy main road which had come to a grinding halt.
We moved on, up the muddy, gritty, waterlogged track. There were cattle in a field to our left, which walked beside us. The path then became fenced. We crossed the fence and continued on. I do not believe the fence should have been there as it barred access to a long distance footpath.
At the end of the farm track we turned right onto a road and then left onto another. We passed the Black Stank, an appropriately named river and then turned left towards Barrack Hill Wood and then right when meeting the wood. The path here was totally waterlogged and we had to pass through deep, murky pools.
In the woods we stopped for a drink and an orange, and admired the view over Loch Magillie. We then continued on to the Old Military Road, a junction and a left turn under a railway bridge, and then across a stile, up a hill and into more woodland.
This took us into Castle Kennedy, where we stopped at a garage and purchased some fluids. We consumed these in the grounds of Castle Kennedy, stopping on the banks of White Lodge. From here we could see Lochinch Castle and church. We were in the Castle Kennedy parkland, which was full of azaleas and Camellias. The greenery was covered in flowering daisies, and the sun still shone with ardent splendor, making for a very fine, if not hot, day.
We passed two beautiful houses in the parkland estate. One had a large lawn of dead daffodils, which must have looked impressive a few weeks earlier. We continued on our path, veering right. To our right was Cults Loch, where the air was filled with the sound of geese. The road then led to a sharp right bend, but we turned before reaching it onto a track to Chlenry Cottages, which looked drab, plain and un-lived in.
We passed the entrance to the House of Chlenry and some farm buildings, and a bubbly stream. We passed over a unique wooden stile to by-pass a gate and took a path between gorse. To our left was Dam Wood. A swollen river, or rather two streams, crossed our path. Here we made a foolish decision to cut off a large bend by short-cutting across a craggy field. It was very boggy and the path that we crossed to was much further away than we thought. The landscape had changed from that shown in our guidebook and was unrecognizable, the huge tracts of trees having been clear-felled. When we eventually returned to our path we were not sure if it was the right one, and it was vital that we got it right because we had a long trek through a large forest ahead of us.
We followed the forestry track, guessing it to be correct. It wound on for a long way. The forest to our left was dark and foreboding. On our right the sun still shone upon us, but was sinking lower; the air was getting noticeably cooler. We couldn't find the narrow track to the right that we were looking out for, but carried on anyway. As it happens we were still on the right track. We had GPS's with us and now relied upon them.
As we neared the end of the forest our path took us steeply downhill along an exceptionally muddy path at the side of a deer fence. At first we tried to avoid the mud but this was impossible and eventually we just walked through it. At last we passed beyond the muddy area and entered a grassy path through woodland down to a stream, which we crossed via a wooden bridge. We then saw the Waters of Luce in the distance.
Our path was taking us to a railway bridge far to our left, and we could see our path returning on the other side of the railway to a point almost opposite where we now were. We were very tired and just wanted to end the walk. Not only had we walked for about 20 miles but the conditions under foot had exacted a high toll from us. So we decided to take a short cut by crossing the railway in front of us instead of using the bridge.
We then cut across to a long wooden bridge spanning the Waters of Luce. The bridge had no support in its centre and swayed as we walked. After crossing the bridge we crossed a field, walked up a small hill and crossed a stile to the road by the farm where we had left Ron's car. We were escorted the rest of the way to his car by a flock of crows.
