Southern Upland Way: Waters of Luce to Bargrennan

Contents :: SOUTHERN UPLAND WAY :: Day 2


		INTRODUCTION		DAY 5
		DAY 1		DAY 6
		DAY 2		DAY 7
		DAY 3		DAY 8
		DAY 4		DAY 9

THE SOUTHERN UPLAND WAY CROSSES SCOTLAND WEST TO EAST COAST

NATIONAL TRAIL GUIDES UK

Day 2 :: Forest Wildernesses :: Waters of Luce to Bargrennan:: 21 miles

We started today where we finished yesterday, on the path opposite to where we had emerged on the the Luce Road. A farmer was standing at the bottom of the path. We exchanged courtesies and then quickly set off, climbing along the path at the side of a copse, opposite to a farm.

Just over the hill we crossed a stile and walked along the right of a dry stone wall, along a farm track. The path gradually changed to a more muddy one and opened out to a grand moorland vista with hills in the distance. Skylarks were again serenading us and I wanted to record them. However, as we had only just set off this did not seem reasonable and so we did not stop.

We estimated there was about 2 miles to go to reach a ruined farmhouse on our very Roman-like road. As we progressed the path changed from muddy to grassy and seemed to stretch ahead into infinity. As we neared the ruin we crossed another stile, beyond which the path, still climbing, became noticeably drier, and harder on the feet.

We circumnavigated the ruined farm building, surveying it from its boundary wall. The weather was glorious and there were only small white puffy clouds floating in the sky. The sun beat steadily down upon us.



Southern Upland Way to Kilhern		Kilhern, the ruined farm house

After the ruined farm, known as Kilhern, we found a way marker which turned us to the left, along a mostly dry, windy path, which climbed towards Knockcraven. The open moorland changed to pasture grazed by sheep as we neared the road near Barnshangan. As we closed the distance to the road we passed the copse at Knockcraven and wondered at the beauty of the Loups of Barnhangan, a slow meandering river that now appeared.

Turning right on the road we headed in a north easterly direction. The road itself was tedious, but easy to travel and easy to follow. The scenery at each side of it was attractive being made up of a mixture of dark green woodland, bright green fields and light brown grasses.



Distant view of the Loups of Barnhangan		The path leaves the road where it touches the Waters of Luce

The call of pheasants became more frequent in this area. Where the road veered sharply to the right and the Waters of Luce came almost to the roadside, our path left the road to head in a north north west direction and into the wilderness. Walking uphill and crossing a footbridge we continued on towards Balmuirie Farm on a metalled road . As we approached Balmuirie Farm we experienced another cattle jam. The farmer, on his four wheeler, stopped us and said his cows were a little wild, and quickly opened a gate for us to a safe field. We scurried in and the cows passed by (actually, young bulls). We then carried on and passed through his white washed farm and beyond onto a good track, strewn with cattle.

After a good while our track led off to the right, uphill on a soft, tussocky route with no defined path, although there were marker posts. We climbed uphill and down, crossed wooden stiles across water and then along the lower edge of a stone wall, where the path was muddy and awkward to navigate. This lasted a good while. To our left was an open expanse of moorland.

We continued to climb the moorland, by-passing Brown Hill, but climbing Knockniehourie, where I telephoned Carol. She was engaged, but a moment later my telephone rang - she had been trying to ring me. What a coincidence both thinking to ring each other at the same time!

Following the call and a much needed 10 minute break we carried on, encountering a very muddy track, some of which was almost knee deep. We could now see ahead of us the dark hues of conifers, marking the edge of the huge conifer woodland ahead of us, through which the Southern Upland Way passed. Its trees looked dark and foreboding, but as we entered it our track was wide and clear, although tussocky and awkward to walk.



Deep muddy path near Knockniehourie		Start of Southern Upland Way in the forest

We crossed a river on a wooden bridge and continued along a very broad clearing between large conifer stands. The river was a very pleasant, still moving sliver of blue, enticing us to dip our burning and aching feet into its cold, soothing waters, but we hurried on instead.

We soon came across the main forest road, to turn right. The surface was gritty and started biting into our increasingly sensitive soles. About a mile further on we turned right onto a narrower track that was far softer and kinder to our feet. It was still sufficiently wide to prevent solar shading and we continued to enjoy the sun's rays. We had expected this forest to be like yesterday's nightmare but it was not; indeed, it was very pleasant and pleasing to the eye.

At a clearing called Laggangan we were stunned to see a pyramidal raised wooden structure (called the Beehive), which was an overnight safety shelter. Inside it was clean and tidy, and contained a journal for fellow travellers.

The clearing was large and would make a pleasant night's camp. We left, going left from our path and almost immediately came upon a pair of standing stones, apparently dating back some 4,000 years. They had etched upon them drawings of crosses, which had been etched there by pilgrims in the dark ages.



The Beehive bothy		The two standing stones of Laggangam

Just beyond the standing stones was a wooden footbridge crossing Tarf Water, a slight river running between conifer stands. The forest was now closing in on us but in an unexpected clearing we saw a huge red fox that didn't notice us until I tried to photograph it. It disappeared quickly and I missed the shot.

We came to the Cairn at Craig-dhu and our path veered to the left. From the cairn we had a clear view across to the mountains ahead. We next came across a large logging operation, and took a shortcut around our path, using its road so that we omitted a partial ascent of Craig Airie Fell. On the forestry road the piles of logs were heaped into neat stacks on each side of the road. Although we were trespassing, a forestry worker passed us and said hello. there was an intense aroma of sap from the drying logs.

In the distance we enjoyed our first glimpse of Loch Derry, which lay in a large gap between this forest and the next. We turned right onto the main forest road and walked quickly downhill towards the loch. To our right was a farmhouse called Derry. I was expecting this to be a village but it was all on its own. To our left was a prominent feature sticking up out of the ground like a needle and named The Stand.

After passing Derry there was a mass of red-brown-tipped bushes to our right. I had not seen the like before, and don't know what plants they were. Beyond them the conifers stood proud.

The road was still metalled and really started to hurt our feet, especially Ron's. As we neared Polbae the waters of the River Bladnock came into view, a wide blue glint in the forest glades.



The forest path		Loch Derry

At Polbae a large house stood from within its grounds and for a while rhododendrons lined the road. Our next objective was Knowe, still along the metalled road. The view ahead to Knowe was idyllic, the blue wending river, lined with deciduous trees curving in the distance to a dark line of conifers; on its flanks were pastures and sheep.



Derry		River Bladnock at Waterside

We next came to Waterside, where a bridge provided a wonderful view of the River Bladnock, the waters of which were very wide and clear. The country each side of the river was quite flat and in the distance were the ever present conifers. A red admiral condescended to pose for a photograph. After Waterside the road ahead lay straight and true, leading on towards Knowe. The river was now meandering away.

Knowe consisted of 2 houses, a telephone box and a bridge. We sat on the bridge, had a drink and an energy bar and left after a few minutes. The Southern Upland Way followed a narrow track off the road to our left just after crossing the road bridge. The small river at the side track led pleasantly away into the moorland, no doubt to join the Bladnock.



Knowe		Leaving Knowe along the Southern Upland Way

Our feet were really hurting now. We gritted our teeth and took the path, which became a narrow zigzag through the conifers. We crossed a forest track and soon came into a wide clearing. Then the trees started to close in tight around us. Suddenly we were out of the forest, crossing a wooden stile onto the moorland. We joined a road and passed Glenruther Lodge. The road climbed uphill on its way to Glenruther. About half a mile after Glenruther we turned right, leaving the road to take the path across the moors.

We were now walking along the Hill of Ochiltree. We could see across to high mountains in the distance, and spotted the line of conifers that marked Bargrennan, our destination for today. We were on open moorland and the Southern Upland Way was clearly displayed by marker posts. As we descended the path became very muddy. Ron put on a spurt and I admired his strength, but worried in case he burnt himself out. His spurt stopped but he carried on.

We could now see Garchew Wood, which lay between us and our destination. We attained the wood and threaded through the trees, our path now cattle-trodden, and followed the way markers, emerging from the wood and crossed rough pasture and a wooden bridge over some small rivers. We then crossed to a road by Garchew Farm.

We now had a very rough moorland to cross, and we were limping quite noticeably, although at a very fast pace. We were carrying GPS's with us and they plotted our current speed at 3.8 mph. The rough pasture became grassier and Bargrennan drew nearer. We climbed a stile over a wall and saw the hall in Bargrennan near where we had parked the car. We quickly made our way to Bridgend (just before Bargrennan), walked to its river and joined the main road via a wooden bridge, crossing the river Cree. And here was our car, our walk having been completed for today.



Onto the moors, approaching Bridgend		Bridgend near Bargrennan


Day 1	Day 3

Author - Roy McKee

National Trail Guides UK