Southern Upland Way: St Marys Loch to Melrose

Contents : SOUTHERN UPLAND WAY


		Introduction		Day 5
		Day 1		Day 6
		Day 2		Day 7
		Day 3		Day 8
		Day 4		Day 9

THE SOUTHERN UPLAND WAY CROSSES SCOTLAND WEST TO EAST COAST

NATIONAL TRAILS GUIDES UK - DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS & GALLERIES

Day 7 :: High up and Running :: St Mary's Loch to Melrose :: 28 miles

Ron's knee was still sore so I was on my own again today.

I ran most of the way today. As Ron was not to be with me I preferred to run, and it would be quicker, which gave Ron and I more time together in the afternoons. Ron and I had walked around St Mary's Loch last evening to save time for me today. It was a gentle walk and did not hurt his knee too much, although his knee was bad this morning.

We started outside the doors of Tibbi Shiels and walked straight to the loch and past the boathouse and a campsite. From the loch, looking along its length, we could see part of the mountains that I would be running on today.

Crossing a stile we had followed a narrow track around the edge of the loch on a grassy bank and into the wood, over a duckboard bridge, out of the woods and onto rough pasture below the conifer line. The path had passed through an area that was bare of shrubs. Birds called out to us incessantly.

Across the loch there were some grand houses overlooking the loch. A blackbird had sung its evensong to us non-stop until we were out of earshot.



Southern Upland Way towards Dryhope		Tibbie Shiels and St Mary's Loch

A pebbled area along the shore had entertained us for a while as we took a break to skim stones. Then we notices a small isthmus, flat and grassy, reaching a short way into the loch, and having deciduous trees growing upon it. This was known as Bowerhope.

The path had then changed to a forestry track, and the conifers no longer resisted the temptation to reach to the loch shores. We had continued to the far end of the loch and had crossed a bridge over the river and then crossed a stile. The path had followed the river for awhile, and we had then crossed to the main road, passing over a small wooden bridge with rails on one side.

We had then walked back.



Where we were serenading by a blackbird's evensong		The path near Bowerhope

I started on my own today on the main road, where the Southern Upland Way leaves St Mary's Loch and crosses the main road. A stile on the opposite side of the road took me to a field and proceeded uphill along a stone wall. All along this section I could see Dryhope Tower with Dryhope Farm. Dryhope Tower is the remains of an old defensive building.

At the top of the field was a stile which led to a field of rough pasture. I left it at the top through an open gate. On my right was a tumbled mass of stones. I do not know what they once were.

Dryhope Tower appeared on my left, a lot larger now. There were shrubs growing from its roof. It seemed peculiar standing there, isolated from the main farm. At the top of the field I crossed another stile and turned right on the farm track. On my left was a deep gulch that opened out ahead.



Dryhope Tower		Dryhope Burn

My path now became very stony. The valley on my left was cut deeply by the burn below. Further along, at a way marker and a parked farmer's trailer, the path turned right across open land. There was no track to follow and no markers to see. I had to rely entirely on my map. As it was, I got it wrong. I should have passed to the right of a cairn on Mill Hill. There was no path and it looked easier to pass to the left of the cairn. I ended up climbing North Hawkshaw Rig far higher than I needed to and could not find the path down. I was still moving in the right general direction according to my GPS and so I did not worry unduly. On my map I knew I should head for a point where the Douglas Burn met the conifer plantation at Blackhouse Farm. I could see the Douglas Burn valley and the conifer wood in the distance and so ran towards them.

South Hawkshaw Rig was an obvious landmark en route and I descended towards it. I then spotted a way marker and footbridge in the distance and continued my course to them. As I descended I saw the way markers on the hill to my right, which I had completely missed.

I reached the correct path. The ground was very soft here. There were sheep all around and I had to slow to a walk when approaching them so that they would not scatter. I passed some duckboarding and turned right at a way marker to follow the contours of South Hawkshaw Rig. There was a magnificent view along the Hawkshaw Glen to my right, and I could see the mist covering the tops of the hills beyond.



The right turn (by trailer) from the Dryhope track		North Hawkshaw Rig

The forest at Blackstone (on Brakehope Rig) grew in prominence as I ran towards it. I could hear cuckoos calling regularly. The path ran between heather as the wooded Hawkshaw Cleuch neared and veered more to the right and took me steeply downhill to cross a bridge at the cleuch. there were two bridges, offering a choice. I chose the easiest, which was followed by wooden steps down and then up an embankment. I crossed a stile to another open area. The path changed to an easier, grassy path and thee was a good view of the forest ahead.

I joined a rough farmer's track and shortly after, Blackhouse farm came into view, site just below the forest. The Douglas Burn now lay before me. There was the choice of a ford or a wooden bridge. I chose the bridge. I crossed the field ahead to a track, turned left at the way marker and proceeded directly to the farm.

I was amazed to see an extremely old building at the farm, almost joined onto it. This is the remains of Blackhouse Tower. The main house of the farm was also aged and quite attractive. At the main gate of the farm a way marker, previously invisible, directed me to a path on the right, to a gate and into the woods beyond.

The woods held a grassy track and although it climbed I was still able to run it. The conifers were not too deep; as I passed along the track I could hear curlews. I passed a stretch of young conifers on my right. In clearings I could glimpse small towers in the woods on the opposite hillside, on my left.



Bridge and steps across Hawkshaw Cleuch		Blackhouse Bridge across Douglas Burn

Further up the path the path changed from grass to stone. Shortly after this the path turned off the track and led to the right. This was indicated by a very poor sign upon which someone had etched the direction more clearly. The track was at once more comfortable, being grassy. At length the end of the forest and top of the hill drew nigh. I left the forest at a stile and took a grassy path forward to the visible way point in the distance.



The path turns to stone		Reaching the summit and exit of Brakehope Fell



The Rig		Mist on mountains above Traquair

On my right I could see the mist rolling down the mountains. I ran downhill to my next GPS way point, a cairn. As the track swept round to my right it became firmer until it ascended The Rig, when it became soft. As I reached the cairn the mist started coming lower, yet it kept away from me. I passed a stile and gate and climbed Blake Muir. Quickly reaching its summit my path then followed a small rill to my right and then crossed into it as it broadened.

As the path widened at a corner of the fence the view opened out. To my left the distant mountains were mist covered; to my right the mountains were totally covered in mist, and were hardly discernible. This is where I was headed.

My track now descended more steeply and i had a fine view over the Quair Valley. The first copse I had to pass along this track came into view and the moors gave way to a rutted, mole field with sheep and lambs in large numbers.

After reaching the copse I climbed a stile. I did not cross into the copse but continued in the field opposite, still running downhill. After a while I crossed a step stile into the next field and continued on a rutted track.

At this point I had one of the best views of the entire route since Port Patrick. The fields on the distant hillsides turned into a patchwork quilt of different greens. The mist added effect.

Soon I was running beside the dying yellow blossoms of gorse and angling in to the next copse, and running beside it. I left the woods and ran into another lane between gorse, which was on both sides. Hawthorn trees took the place of gorse as I descended. I crossed to a rough track and then to the road at the side of a house, and turned left. After a mile I entered the outskirts of Traquair and turned right at a large cross roads and ran up a tulip lined lane.

At the top of the lane the road bent right but the Southern Upland Way continued straight on, up a graveled road signposted to Minch Moor. The track soon changed to a dirt track with open fields on the left and hedgerow on the right. A stile marked the beginning of the real ascent of Minch Moor. The path was very steep on its way to the huge forest covering the moor. I was forced to walk here but at length the ascent evened out a little and I was able to resume running.



View to Traquair - patchwork quilt		Path descending into Traquair

As the track up Minch Moor swept to the left between two stone walls there was a view of the woods on the right. Once I reached the woods I was able to see just how dense they were. On my left I could see clearly down the path I had just run, all the way to Traquair.

A large area of clear-felling appeared on my left and my track now became much rougher. There was a wooden bothy on my right as I climbed. I reached a forestry road and crossed it into an area of clear-felling and met an American gentleman who advised me there was no view from the top because of the mist. This was just what I did not want to hear. I didn't mind there being no view but I did mind navigating in mist. The path here was very steep indeed and I was again forced to walk. The path was covered in large, hard stones.

At length I encountered another forestry road and crossed it, not taking the path immediately opposite along the trees, but taking the path slightly to the right through a stile. The track was grassy; the mist rolled down to meet me. I entered the mist unwillingly but it was quite thin and was no trouble to me.

I passed through a tall gated fence. As I neared the Cheese Well the mist came down thicker. At the Cheese Well yellow flowers marked its presence. There were a number of stones to indicate it. The Cheese Well is a small spring.



Hard stone track up Minch Moor		Approaching the Cheese Well

The terrain up here consisted of a direct track with stones, having heather on each side and conifers below. I soon reached a large direction sign for the Southern Upland Way and for the summit of Minch Moor, which lay to my right.

My track started to head downwards. As the heather receded the trees closed in. The track became soft and muddy. Although I had climbed high I could see a forested mountain ahead of much greater height and knew my path led there.

I joined a forestry road and turned left. I climbed steeply once more with conifers on my right and heather on my left. Rounding a bend at the summit of Hare Law I noticed that a cruel icy wind was now blowing. Running, however, kept me warm. I left the woods by a stile and looked ahead to my path up to Brown Knowe. I passed a sign pointing to Yarrowford and kept left. I could see down the valley to Yarrowford - it was a magnificent view.

The path, as I ascended, was soft and earthy and I passed a point on the map marked as Wallace's Trench, but saw nothing of note.

The track changed to hard stone between rows of heather and I ascended Lucken Head. The path I was on is known as the Old Drove Road. Skylarks were singing most of time I was here.

The path became earthy as I descended steeply to a stile and copse at Four Lords Lands. I continued to a nice grassy path to the right of the copse. I crossed two more stiles as I approached my next hill, a small rounded dome called Broomy Law. From the top of Broomy Law I had a splendid view of the mountains in the distance. Ahead I could see the forest I was aiming for, Yair Hill Forest. I crossed a stile and shortly after came to another on a wall to the right with a sign pointing right to Broadmeadows youth hostel.

I carried on ahead, crossed a stile and took a path to the right of the trees. There was a bench to allow people a view of the grand panorama. The path went on for some time. I could see 3 cairns on the top of the hill ahead. They were known as the Three Brethren. They were large stone cairns and prominent for a long distance around. There was also a white concrete cairn that looked out of place and ugly in contrast.



Fur Lords Lands		The Three Brethren

My path turned right at the Three Brethren and I took a long, steep downward run on a stony. trail. The path curved round to the left near the bottom of the steep descent and then ran to the left of more trees. There was a large area of clear-felling on my left.

Log cutting was going on as I descended. I crossed a forestry road and continued down through the trees. Blocking my path and exactly behind a marker point indicating straight ahead, was a wall of stacked logs, making it impossible to go that way. I was able to discover an opening in the woodland to my left and used that.

The path curved to the right and continued down at the side of Shorthope Burn and the conifers. I then entered deciduous woodland with a deep ravine at the side. There were yellow pansies on the grass verges.

The path seemed to go on for ever. My feet and knees were aching, and I just wanted to finish. I entered an area of what appeared to be parkland, and smelled a wonderful fragrance of blossom. I joined a private road and turned right and ran past The Clints. To my left was the River Tweed. Ahead of me was the arched span of Yair Bridge.



Obstruction on the Southern Upland Way in Yair Hill Forest		Southern Upland Way along Moss Burn nearing Melrose

I ran across Yair Bridge and followed the road left. Shortly after I turned right at a farm track and climbed upwards. I passed through woods and beyond, keeping left of a wall. I relied heavily on my GPS here as I could not discern the track. I turned left around the edge of a wood and entered Galashiels, and found my way, eventually, to the Southern Upland Way at the food of Gala Hill. When I reached the A7 I no longer followed the path, but walked around Galashiels and the rejoined the Southern Upland Way at the dismantled railway and followed this into Melrose.



Yair Bridge, above the River Tweed		Melrose Abbey


Day 6	Day 8

Author - Roy McKee

National Trail Guides UK