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Contents : SOUTHERN UPLAND WAY               Introduction Day 5   Day 1 Day 6   Day 2 Day 7   Day 3 Day 8   Day 4 Day 9           THE SOUTHERN UPLAND WAY CROSSES SCOTLAND WEST TO EAST COAST     NATIONAL TRAILS GUIDES UK - DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS & GALLERIES           Day 9 :: Journeys End :: Longformacus to Cockburnspath :: 18 miles           Ron's knee was sufficiently better that he was able to walk with me today, which I was grateful for as I had missed his company. We left Longformacus by taking a left turn from the main road at Townhead (the Whitchester Road) and onto a small country lane. We followed this until just beyond a copse where we left the road at a stile going right. We walked uphill with woodland on our left. We reached the top of the hill and walked along the right hand side of Owl Wood and immediately passing on the left hand side of Commonside Wood. We then veered to our left and descended steeply to Lodge Wood. There was much logging in progress. The weather was inclement. It was quite misty and there was fine drizzle. The scent of sap from the piled logs was rather heady but pleasant.               Logging in Lodge Wood   Turning left at Whitchester Lodge onto the busy main road           We walked down the forestry track passed the piles of heaped logs, passed Whitchester Lodge which was built on the very corner of the main road, and crossed the road, turning left and almost immediately turned off the road onto a steep track on our right leading up Blakerstone Moor. We walked alongside a bank of Scots Pine. Near the top of the hill the track was way marked and we we directed to our left. We were not following any discernible track and it was difficult to see the next way marker because of the thickening mist. A new fence seems to have been introduced here and we were obliged to stay close to it because of the way the farmer's crops were planted. The farmer had effectively reduced the width of the path so much it was uncomfortable to walk upon. We soon discovered another way marker, which directed us across the crops and into Roughside Wood, where we turned left into a steep valley and descended to Robber's Cleuch. Here we turned to our right onto a broad stony track that led around Abbey Hill and above Whiteadder Water, which ran the full length of the valley we were now in. The track developed banks, and these were tree-lined and covered in bilberry bushes. The track that took us steeply downhill to Whiteadder Water, an attractive tree lined river with grassy verges. We followed the track for a couple of miles along the river, until reaching Abbey House, an attractively designed stone dwelling. Across a road was a church with a steep pyramidal tower.             Above Robbers Cleuch   Whitehadder Water near Black Wiel         We crossed a large metal footbridge to take a path that ran along the far side of Whiteadder Water. Looking back along the river to my left the ground was cloaked in a mantle of deciduous trees on each side of the water. The effect of the mist added a touch of mystique. The whole scene was surreal, the river reflecting the sky and trees. We continued along the path until reaching Abbey St Bathans, were we decided to cross the narrow bridge beside a wide concrete ford and around a trout farm and then another footbridge, which took us into the village. The Southern Upland Way led in the opposite direction, but we decided it was time for dinner, and as it was our last day we decided to treat ourselves to a cooked meal. We ate at the Riverside Restaurant and had a jolly nice rest. After eating we made our way back to the footpath and followed the track into the woods along a stream. Mother goose and her goslings occupied the path and would not let us pass. An attempt to pass resulted in a goose attack. She ran at us with her long neck stretched out and hissed loudly. Ron panicked and tried to jump the stream, but soaking a foot as he did. I laughed and then showed him how to do it properly, landing plump in the middle and getting thoroughly soaked. Further down we re-crossed the stream and squelched up the track. The path followed the river's meander and then turned right between a stone wall and a wire fence. We felt a little closed in. The path climbed for awhile, crossing duck-boarding on the boggier parts, and shortly after turned right onto an open field, heading for a distant cairn (it looked further away than it was because of the mist). We passed under some power lines and then sighted a large stone object looming out of the mist.             Whiteadder Water   Mother Goose and her goslings         The object turned out to be a large cairn with a weather vane upon it. Enclosed within a fence around the cairn was a plaque, which described the cairn as commemorating 100 years of occupation of Whiteburn Farm by the Cockburn family between 1848 and 1948. As we approached Whiteburn Farm the path directed us off the track to cross a stile to walk about 100 yards in an overgrown forest verge only to cross back onto the track. The motive for the diversion completely escaped us. We approached the farm which appeared to be a 4 x 4 training school, amongst other things, and once again we were directed off the track and around the farm to re-cross to the track after passing the farm. As we continued to walk the mist seemed to be thickening and it smelled coastal. We were obviously nearing the coast.             Cairn and Weather Vane looming out of the mist   Cottages at Blackburn         We passed a conifer plantation on our left and then followed a fence on our right to a road where we turned left, and then right after 100 yards or so onto a farm track. We approached and passed Blackburn Mill and followed a road for a good way, passing a terrace of cottages at Blackburn. The road became more scenic where it turned at Reedy Burn. The road then dropped to the A1, which we had to cross. We then continued on the opposite side to the old A1 road and crossed a railway line into deciduous woodland where we walked a long way, zigzagging uphill. We had again re-entered the mist and could see much detail in the landscape. Eventually we crossed a road by an ancient bridge and entered more woodland, leaving it at a wooden gate on the road by Pease Sands. All of a sudden there was a terrific view, through the mist, over the North Sea, although this was marred by row upon row of caravans in the bay below.             Pease Sands caravan park   Cove Harbour           The breakers in Pease Bay were quite high and surfers were riding them. The path then followed the road uphill, leaving it at Old Linhead and following the cliff top. We saw an attractive harbour, Cove Harbour, and found our way down to it via a cave passage. There were 2 rundown properties standing prominently on the edge of the harbour, looking all the world as I imaged smugglers properties to be, perfectly positioned, out of sight, for smuggling.             Cottages at Cove Harbour   Cave passage to Cove Harbour             Looking back after passing Cove Harbour   Cockburnspath and the end of the Southern Upland Way         We climbed the steps from the cove and followed the road into Cockburnspath. This was a small and very quiet village, and it seemed rather an odd place to finish the Southern Upland Way.             Day 8 Introduction       Author - Roy McKee Copyright © Roy McKee 2006