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Contents :: WHITE PEAK WAY :: Day 1                 INTRODUCTION       DAY 1       DAY 2       DAY 3         DAY 4                 THE WHITE PEAK WAY IS THE SOUTHERN EXTENSION OF THE PENNINE WAY     NATIONAL TRAIL GUIDES UK           Day 1 :: A Good Day:: Thorpe to Hartington :: 9.5 miles           Our walk today would take us through 4 magnificent limestone gorges, one after the other; these were Dovedale, Milldale, Wolfscote Dale and Beresford Dale. We began in the large car park just outside the village of Thorpe, near to the Izaac Walton hotel. We paid £2 for the parking fee and promptly began our walk along a track that offers an immediate choice of routes. One can either continue along the path for about half a mile and then cross the River Dove at the stepping stones. On a busy summer weekend, as was today, one can expect a large queue of pedestrian traffic. We opted for the alternative route of crossing a small bridge to reach the opposite side of the Dove and walk along a rough, but not to difficult path to the stepping stones half a mile away, where the two paths would rejoin. We noted that a flowering weed was breaking the surface in the fast flowing waters, and as pretty though it was, the teeming tourists did not seem to notice. After quickly making it to the stepping stones we were pleased to note that there was quite busy traffic on the stopping stones but that there was now no need for us to use them. It was fun, though to watch the children enjoying themselves in the adventure and exhilaration of crossing. Shortly after the stepping stones is a small weir, beyond which the river seemed to flow a lot more slowly. A stone stile led to a good, flat track running parallel to the river, with a large grassy swathe between, which, on sunny days, is usually populated by semi-naked bodies sunbathing. Each side of us were large grassy and tree covered slopes. Slightly behind us was one of the gateway hills to Dovedale, known as Thorpe Cloud. There is an easy path up this for those wanting the exercise.               Walking towards the Stepping Stones   Dovedale's stepping stones           We continued to walk along the River Dove. This river forms the boundary between Staffordshire and Derbyshire. We were walking on the Derbyshire side. There are various limestone features in Dovedale that have acquired a certain fame and have their own names. The first of these is the Twelve Apostles, a series of huge limestone pinnacles rising from the deeply wooded banks. As we continued to walk our path began to climb steeply up a series of steps that took us to the top of Lover's Leap and then down again to rejoin the River Dove. Lover's Leap, was, as usual, clustered with families that had conquered the steep step climb. At the top of the climb, at the side of the rocky summit, is a deep drop to the ravine below.               Into Dovedale   Part of the Twelve Apostles             Lover's Leap   The River Dove between Lover's Leap and The Straits         The River Dove continued to wind through the valley, seemingly more beautiful with each bend. The sun was not shining but the river seemed to catch every glint of light and the vegetation held every shade of green. Birds were chirping gaily and fish were jumping for flies regularly. On the far side of the Dove was Dovedale Wood. The river valley began to narrow as the valley walls drew closer. This is an area known as The Straits, were the path is elevated above the river, in sections of duck boarding. As we left The Straits another limestone feature came into view. This was Lion's Head Rock, so named because of the resemblance of a lion's head when viewed from the path going north.             The Straits   Lion's Head Rock         We continued to walk and after a short distance we came upon Pickering Rock and Ilam Tor, each on opposite sides of the river, with a bridge connecting the two. Pickering Tor, on our side, had a medium sized cavern at its base, a useful shelter from the rain during inclement weather. Ilam Rock also has a cave at its base, and can be accessed to some depth by those willing to enter via a sink. The Rock itself towers above the valley and is frequently used by climbers testing their skills, as it was today. There is often a bevy of tourists gathered on the bank watching in awe.             Pickering Tor   Ilam Rock             Bridge between Ilam Rock and Pickering Tor   Shepherds Abbey Rocks         After watching a climb for several minutes we continued on our wide graveled track between dense herbage on each side, and along the banks of the Dove, watching ducks of various species drifting lazily. As our path climbed slightly and curved to the right we found ourselves gazing over a sweep of the river. To our left was Shepherds Rocks, a series of limestone pinnacles and forward to our right a series of large caverns known as Dove Holes. One can go into the caverns but not to any great distance.             Dove Holes   River Dove near Dove Holes         Walking on the riverbank never ceased to surprise us with the views along the river and across the wider parts where many small islands of grasses and herbs grew. The woodland on our right was Upper Taylor's Wood. Opposite, a path led up Hall Dale, a steeply sided dale joining into Dovedale. We could now see the end of the dale, where the rocky sides ahead started to diminish. The last notable features of Dovedale, those marking the Milldale side of the Dovedale entrance were The Nabs, on our side of the river, a small series of rocky ridges, and Ravens Tor, a large limestone outcrop, on the Staffordshire side of the Dove.             Raven's Tor   The Nabs         We next walked forward, to a gate stile, and out of the dale, leaving near a broad grassy swathe just before reaching Viators Bridge, which took us across the River Dove and into the hamlet of Milldale, which is also the start of the next dale, Mill Dale. This area, which is accessible by road, is a very popular tourist area and tourists are always seen sitting on the banks of the river, feeding the ducks. This is also the closest approach to our own holiday cottage, in the nearby village of Alstonefield, just a short walk (or drive) from here. Mill Dale is a short dale, about 3/4 mile long, and the path proceeds along the Staffordshire side of the river, mostly along a minor road but sometimes along a narrow path that now and again appears. If the road could be ignored then the beauty of the dale would be readily apparent. There are many small weirs all along Mill Dale and it is attractively adorned with lush vegetation all along.             Approaching Milldale   River Dove in Milldale         We left Milldale where it joined the road between Alstonefield and the A6, crossing the road at a bridge and taking some stone steps back down to the River Dove, on the Derbyshire side. On the opposite bank was Lode Mill, an attractive building, and on our right a beautiful cottage, exquisitely located. We were now entering Wolfscote Dale. Wolfscote Dale is not nearly so often visited as Dovedale, and yet is very pretty, and in my opinion very much underestimated. The easy gravel track continued along many small weirs. The first part of Wolfscote Dale is strewn with dense clusters of wild flowers and then becomes densely wooded. Later, the dale's sides steepen and are mostly covered in limestone scree.             Wolfscote Dale   A bend of the Dove in Wolfscote Dale         We passed a bridge leading to an adjacent path on the opposite bank, but continued ahead, trying to absorb all the wonderful views that appeared around every bend. We were taking deep breaths as we walked, trying to absorb all the wonderful wayside smells. As we entered the woodland the scents from wayside flowers, and the earth itself, became more intense, as did our feelings of elation. We passed another bridge and on our right was a shallow cave entrance with a plaque outside headed Iron Tors; inside was an old water pump. Further on the river broadened and islands of grasses and reeds appeared. We met a couple taking bird photographs with a large camera and tripod. We were given a display of the day's highlights, which included a close up of a dipper, a red-breasted merganser and a heron with a water vole in its beak. They had been richly rewarded for their patience.             Wolfscote Dale   Island in the River Dove         We came to a stile through a stone wall and the entrance to Biggin Dale on our right. But our path lay ahead. We now left the wooded area of Wolfscote Dale and entered the scree section, where the sides of the dale steepened. In many places the scree had fallen across the path. And then we passed some small caves on our right and upwards and then passed through a wooded gate stile in a stone wall, and several further stiles, as we left Wolfscote Dale to walk over a large field.             Scree in Wolfscote Dale   Beresford Dale         At the end of the field was a wooden bridge over the River Dove, which we crossed and next followed the left hand bank of the Dove through Beresford Dale, which has a special charm all of its own. Beresford Dale is only a short dale and we soon left it over a wooden bridge, walking uphill through Morson Wood. We left the wood through a gate stile at a stone wall and walked across a series of fields into the village of Hartington. This was as far as we were walking today.         Introduction Day 2       Author - Roy McKee Copyright © Roy McKee 2006